As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control). However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot. My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line. So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??. I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance. What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered! *Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200. If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat. Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Is it necessary to bed the hardware to aluminum? Daniel On Apr 3, 2012, at 7:14 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
No. I tend to tap and use bolts and a little loctite rather than rivets, however. If you use rivets, stainless are much more secure than aluminum, but harder to actuate. t On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 7:24 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Is it necessary to bed the hardware to aluminum?
Daniel
On Apr 3, 2012, at 7:14 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
I'm a tap and bolt guy myself... Daniel On Apr 3, 2012, at 8:36 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
No. I tend to tap and use bolts and a little loctite rather than rivets, however. If you use rivets, stainless are much more secure than aluminum, but harder to actuate. t
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 7:24 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Is it necessary to bed the hardware to aluminum?
Daniel
On Apr 3, 2012, at 7:14 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Two years ago I replaced the main on my M17 with a loose-footed main from Elliot/Pattison Sailmakers. I had specified a bolt rope for the luff, but didn't even realize that I was getting a loose-footed main until it arrived. After some research I decided to give it a try. I use the 4:1 outhaul, and it works great. I've grown to like the draft control I have with the loose-footed main. Rich Makela M17 #233 - Harmony -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Bill Wickett Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 9:14 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Loose Foot vs Bolt Rope Foot Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200. If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat. Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
I believe the 4:1 outhaul's main advantage is the fine grained adjustment, not the 4x power advantage. If you pull in 1 inch on the 4:1 outhaul it only moves the clew of the sail 1/4 inch. This is true of anything, bolt rope or loose foot. I am also a fan of loose footed mains but if you never adjust them it makes no difference what main you get. Thanks Doug Kelch "Seas the Day" M15G #310 On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 8:40 AM, Rich Makela <richmak@makelaperformance.com>wrote:
Two years ago I replaced the main on my M17 with a loose-footed main from Elliot/Pattison Sailmakers. I had specified a bolt rope for the luff, but didn't even realize that I was getting a loose-footed main until it arrived. After some research I decided to give it a try. I use the 4:1 outhaul, and it works great. I've grown to like the draft control I have with the loose-footed main.
Rich Makela M17 #233 - Harmony
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Bill Wickett Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 9:14 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Loose Foot vs Bolt Rope Foot
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Bill, In the Harken 4:1 external, how is the clew connected? In the diagram both ends of the line are dead-ended - one end to the eyestrap and the other to the moving block. It appears to pass through the clew cringle. But then the clew would not be detachable. What obvious point am I missing? Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Tuesday, April 3, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Rick, Easy answer - don't detach the outhaul or the mainsail, all season long. If you rig everytime you sail, leave your main on the boom, flaked and tied. Stow it in the cabin like that. One less thing to do when rigging or tearing down. We mostly drysail from yard, launching each time, and leave the boat completely rigged including a sailcover over the main,and the jib of the day in a sail bag at the bow. When we do travel, we leave the main on the boom. Put the sail on the boom, run the outhaul line through the clew, with a figure 8 knot through the padeye. If you do want to take off the sail each time, you will have to look for a small snap hook. Small enough to pull through the clew cringle (eye). Or tie in a knot each time. My loose footed main has a 3" long metalslug at the clew in the sail groove. It slides pretty well with a yearly waxing. If I didn't have that, guess I would have a strap through the clew cringle and around the boom. When we do stow the boom with sail, we leave the topping lift attached, until the boom is in the cabin. Makes it a very easy job for the Admiral. One end is supported. Julie lifts the gooseneck out, steps down into the cabin and guides the boom in. Then she detaches the topping lift. She hooks it up first thing when we start rigging again. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 4:07 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
In the Harken 4:1 external, how is the clew connected? In the diagram both ends of the line are dead-ended - one end to the eyestrap and the other to the moving block. It appears to pass through the clew cringle. But then the clew would not be detachable. What obvious point am I missing?
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Tuesday, April 3, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Thanks, Bill, that all makes a lot of sense. I also drysail, but had not thought of leaving the sail on all season. It's certainly quicker getting into the water if the sail's already on the boom. I can't leave the boom mounted since I have mid-boom sheeting and keep the boat covered when not in the water. I'll have to practice flaking and tieing. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, April 4, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
Easy answer - don't detach the outhaul or the mainsail, all season long. If you rig everytime you sail, leave your main on the boom, flaked and tied. Stow it in the cabin like that. One less thing to do when rigging or tearing down. We mostly drysail from yard, launching each time, and leave the boat completely rigged including a sailcover over the main,and the jib of the day in a sail bag at the bow. When we do travel, we leave the main on the boom.
Put the sail on the boom, run the outhaul line through the clew, with a figure 8 knot through the padeye. If you do want to take off the sail each time, you will have to look for a small snap hook. Small enough to pull through the clew cringle (eye). Or tie in a knot each time.
My loose footed main has a 3" long metalslug at the clew in the sail groove. It slides pretty well with a yearly waxing. If I didn't have that, guess I would have a strap through the clew cringle and around the boom.
When we do stow the boom with sail, we leave the topping lift attached, until the boom is in the cabin. Makes it a very easy job for the Admiral. One end is supported. Julie lifts the gooseneck out, steps down into the cabin and guides the boom in. Then she detaches the topping lift. She hooks it up first thing when we start rigging again.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 4:07 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
In the Harken 4:1 external, how is the clew connected? In the diagram both ends of the line are dead-ended - one end to the eyestrap and the other to the moving block. It appears to pass through the clew cringle. But then the clew would not be detachable. What obvious point am I missing?
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Tuesday, April 3, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
Rick, We have the Sailor's Tailor boat cover on when in the drysail yard. The lower end of the main sheet is connected to the traveller with a snap shackle. So that releases and we wrap that around the sail, then the sail cover goes on. End of the boom gets tied to the back stay. The boat cover has 2 loops over the cockpit area that we tie up over the boom. This also helps to keep the sail cover in place. Everything is pretty stable and has been through numerous T-storms with no ill effects. Bill On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 5:49 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Bill, that all makes a lot of sense. I also drysail, but had not thought of leaving the sail on all season. It's certainly quicker getting into the water if the sail's already on the boom. I can't leave the boom mounted since I have mid-boom sheeting and keep the boat covered when not in the water. I'll have to practice flaking and tieing.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, April 4, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
Easy answer - don't detach the outhaul or the mainsail, all season long. If you rig everytime you sail, leave your main on the boom, flaked and tied. Stow it in the cabin like that. One less thing to do when rigging or tearing down. We mostly drysail from yard, launching each time, and leave the boat completely rigged including a sailcover over the main,and the jib of the day in a sail bag at the bow. When we do travel, we leave the main on the boom.
Put the sail on the boom, run the outhaul line through the clew, with a figure 8 knot through the padeye. If you do want to take off the sail each time, you will have to look for a small snap hook. Small enough to pull through the clew cringle (eye). Or tie in a knot each time.
My loose footed main has a 3" long metalslug at the clew in the sail groove. It slides pretty well with a yearly waxing. If I didn't have that, guess I would have a strap through the clew cringle and around the boom.
When we do stow the boom with sail, we leave the topping lift attached, until the boom is in the cabin. Makes it a very easy job for the Admiral. One end is supported. Julie lifts the gooseneck out, steps down into the cabin and guides the boom in. Then she detaches the topping lift. She hooks it up first thing when we start rigging again.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 4:07 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
In the Harken 4:1 external, how is the clew connected? In the diagram both ends of the line are dead-ended - one end to the eyestrap and the other to the moving block. It appears to pass through the clew cringle. But then the clew would not be detachable. What obvious point am I missing?
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Tuesday, April 3, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Not to hard to make an outhaul. Can be as simple as a cheek block and a cleat. The block would be at the aft end of the boom, to turn the outhaul line so it can be cleated farther up the boom. We have an 1-1/8" diameter block there. Mounted as far aft as possible, just beside the groove. I think it is a Harken #092 Bullet Block. Could also use a slightly larger diameter 1 1/2" Harken #132. Both use #10 machine screws. You will have to drill the boom 2 x and then tap the hole. You can get a #10 tap at auto parts store. Mount a 3" horn cleat or a small cam cleat about 12" forward from that. Again, drill and tap for the screws. Bed the hardware with Lifecaulk, or 4200.
If you want to have a bit more mechanical advantage 4:1, use a second single block on a second line from a small padeye to the cleat.
Hard to write it out. Go here to see the picture http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Outhaul.php
Even cruising, having the control of the foot makes a difference. Doesn't take much tweaking to get more power.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Jeffrey Johnston <frjeff@gmail.com> wrote:
As I am ready to order new sails for My Monty 15, I have been reading everything I can about sail configuration for this boat and listening to much advice herein. Many indicate that I should go with a loose footed main (presumably, giving far better sail shape control).
However, I have recently read somewhere that it takes some modification/additions to the outhaul to effectively use the loose footed style. I believe the reference was to some sort of block arrangement to give greater purchase when tightening the foot.
My rig is the old standard with a track/slot boom for the bolt rope. The outhaul has no block set-up, just a straight pull and tie off line.
So, if I choose the loose foot, what mods am I facing to make it all work properly and efficiently ??.
I don't race, I cruise, primarily recreational day sailing. I enjoy tweaking a bit more out of any sailboat, but do not care to make extensive mods to my rig if the attached foot arrangement is adequate for my sailing style and the loose foot only adds an imperceptible improvement to performance.
What say all of you experts? I thank you all again for any advice offered!
*Jeff Johnston+* Molōn labe!
participants (7)
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Bill Wickett -
Daniel Rich -
douglas kelch -
Jeffrey Johnston -
Rich Makela -
Rick Davies -
Tom Smith