Just an aside .... The trick to drilling stainless is to keep it wet while drilling either by a small stream of water from a garden sprayer for large parts or by being submerged in a water bath for small parts. (Some friends and I built a 55' x 14' houseboat for Lake Powell completely out of stainless ... just imagine how many holes were drilled! Once this trick was learned we never tried to drill stainless without water.) Fred Dulce M17 #300 On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 07:18:43 -0600 Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> writes:
Now that sounds like advice to follow....and probably easier to machine as well. I know the stainless is a bitch on equipment. Just drilling the holes in 1/2" stainless could take one or more drill bits each hole. BTW...stick with McMaster Carr. They have about 8 to 10 versions of bronze and bronze alloy rods in 1/2' stock....in both 3' and 6' lengths. Both 655 alloy silicon bronze and two versions of aluminum bronze (630 and 954). A 3' x 1/2" 655 bronze rod was priced at $22.54 each. The 630 aluminum bronze was $35.48 for the same length. Disclaimer, I don't own em, I just use em and have always always gotten excellent service from them.
Howard
You know what works even better than 316? Any good bronze, but the easiest to get would be silicone bronze, probably. Best that I know of is aluminum bronze; it's stiffer and stronger than stainless.
The stainless pintles, slining on bronze instead of stainless, get slicker and slicker with use, which is the opposite of stainless/stainless..
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 7:05 AM Subject: M_Boats: Rudder pins...
If the rod in question is the straight pin 1/2" rods, with holes drilled in them, you can make them yourself. I would get 316 stainless rod from McMaster-Carr:
I would cut them to length and would make at least two. One should always have a spare rudder pin on board. The rudder will raise and lower easily on a straight pin and almost not at all on a bent one. Use 316 stainless. More corrosion resistant and easier to cut and drill holes, but may bend more easily.
Howard
On 3/18/05 8:31 AM, "Wayne Yeargain" <saltydog@ev1.net> wrote:
Are you are talking about the steel rod that holds the standard M17 rudder on ? I just bought a 3/8" Dia. rod at Home Depot and cut it to length, about 32" long I think. Drilled some small holes each end for cotter pins to retain it.
Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: <TOMMYVAL@aol.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 7:35 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: A little advice & info please?
M Listers
I need to replace my rudder post on a 1993 M 17 and was wondering if anyone had any ideas where I may be able to purchase one or have one made. Bob has contacted the original manufacturer (Thank you Bob!!) to see about getting a replacement but so far has had no luck.
Hopefully the manufacturer will come through but I'm starting to get behind the eight ball and would like to see what other options are available. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
Gary _______________________________________________
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