To All, I am in the process of upgrading/restoring hull #201 (1982). I would like to gain access to the transom so that I can replace the current motor mount and add a ladder to the opposite side. I am considering cutting an access panel in the rear of the boat (cockpit side of course, I'm not a total idiot!), and seal it with a teak louvered vent cover. The teak cover would be simply for looks and allow me to reach both sides of the inside mounting brackets for the motor mount and ladder. The hole would be approx. 6"x9" Does anyone think that this cut would compromise the integrity of the transom or other parts of the boat? It appears that Norm, hull #172 has made a similar mod. I'm guessing this was for the same reason. I am also considering other upgrades such as electrical, so I'd like to know how others have wired their boats and stored the battery. If anyone has any suggestions for additional mods that they consider a "must have", vs "nice to do", I'd appreciate some thoughts. I realize a season or two of sailing the boat would help shed some light on these types of mods, but since I have all winter to wait before sailing season, I thought I'd take advantage of everyone elses experiences. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Skip Still working on a name Hull #201 ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Hey Skip, I cut an access hole in the top rear seat for access to installing a boarding ladder and eventually replacing the cockpit drain hose (not done yet) when I restored my '77 last year. There are a few pictures where the port opening sticks out from under something on the project pages on my website: http://members.cox.net/slsail/feedback.htm As it is usually covered by something, I did not go the teak route but it would probably look nice. Steve Shenkel <>< _/) M 17 # 263 (Also still working on a name) Glendale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+slsail=cox.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+slsail=cox.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of wcampion@aol.com Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 6:52 AM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Transom Access To All, I am in the process of upgrading/restoring hull #201 (1982). I would like to gain access to the transom so that I can replace the current motor mount and add a ladder to the opposite side. I am considering cutting an access panel in the rear of the boat (cockpit side of course, I'm not a total idiot!), and seal it with a teak louvered vent cover. The teak cover would be simply for looks and allow me to reach both sides of the inside mounting brackets for the motor mount and ladder. The hole would be approx. 6"x9" Does anyone think that this cut would compromise the integrity of the transom or other parts of the boat? It appears that Norm, hull #172 has made a similar mod. I'm guessing this was for the same reason. I am also considering other upgrades such as electrical, so I'd like to know how others have wired their boats and stored the battery. If anyone has any suggestions for additional mods that they consider a "must have", vs "nice to do", I'd appreciate some thoughts. I realize a season or two of sailing the boat would help shed some light on these types of mods, but since I have all winter to wait before sailing season, I thought I'd take advantage of everyone elses experiences. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Skip Still working on a name Hull #201 ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I am also doing a version of this mod. It is quite high on the old priority list. The rigid glass outboard bracket is coming off and my spring loaded and adjustable unit is going on in its place. I have found that even with the long shaft on Mr. Yamaguchi it does not reach deep enough in lumps and the motor does not quit come far enough out of the water. On a starboard tack the bottom 4-6" of motor drags in the water and, although it may not have that much of an effect, it seems redundant to be tweaking trim and shifting crew weight for more boatspeed when your prop is being dragged through the water. ~:0) I also miss the ability to change the depth of the prop as required. I had intended to use some deck plates for the access. I have five of them in the cockpit area of my other boat. They work well and are water tight, easy to fit and use.....and they are inexpensive. At least where I get them they are. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/hatches/sd336140-160/index.htm I plan on an eight inch deckplate on both sides just above the bench seats on the inner transom. Although I am almost certain this will be the way I go....the idea of having some added ventilation by installing a louvered unit has some appeal. At the very least, I do have to add some form of venting forward. I have developed a way to leave the foredeck hatch cracked about an inch, and locked, but am not too comfortable with that system and where I leave the boat during the season. Anybody have something that works well? Cheers all, Tim Diebert M17 # 369 'Puff' Kelowna BC.....where it snowed four inches yesterday....and it is still here. ~:0(
To All, Thanks for the feedback. After reviewing Norm's method and several others, I'm not sure I want to cut into the transom, especially if I have to put back the piece I cut out. The louvered vent was originally purchased with the thought of adding it to the hatch doors, but I was thinking I could use it as an access to the transom. However, based on Norm's experience, it appears that a 6"x9" whole would not be sufficient and I don't want to open up an even larger whole. So I think I am going to use 2 6" round access plates cut into each of the lower part of the benchs, just forward of the transom. This should allow enough access to all of the bolts, I hope. If someone knows of a reason that this approach will not work, please let me know before I make the cut! Maybe in the next 2 weeks. The Holiday season is upon us, and the hustle and bustle is cutting into my tinkering time. Oh well, I still have Jan, Feb, Mar before I can launch anyway. Take care all, Skip Eldersburg, MD M15 #201 (still thinkin' of a name) -----Original Message----- From: tim@timtone.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 10:21 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Transom Access I am also doing a version of this mod. It is quite high on the old priority list. The rigid glass outboard bracket is coming off and my spring loaded and adjustable unit is going on in its place. I have found that even with the long shaft on Mr. Yamaguchi it does not reach deep enough in lumps and the motor does not quit come far enough out of the water. On a starboard tack the bottom 4-6" of motor drags in the water and, although it may not have that much of an effect, it seems redundant to be tweaking trim and shifting crew weight for more boatspeed when your prop is being dragged through the water. ~:0) I also miss the ability to change the depth of the prop as required. I had intended to use some deck plates for the access. I have five of them in the cockpit area of my other boat. They work well and are water tight, easy to fit and use.....and they are inexpensive. At least where I get them they are. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/hatches/sd336140-160/index.htm I plan on an eight inch deckplate on both sides just above the bench seats on the inner transom. Although I am almost certain this will be the way I go....the idea of having some added ventilation by installing a louvered unit has some appeal. At the very least, I do have to add some form of venting forward. I have developed a way to leave the foredeck hatch cracked about an inch, and locked, but am not too comfortable with that system and where I leave the boat during the season. Anybody have something that works well? Cheers all, Tim Diebert M17 # 369 'Puff' Kelowna BC.....where it snowed four inches yesterday....and it is still here. ~:0( _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Skip, I added a stern pulpit and adjustable spring loaded motor mount on my M15 and have been very pleased. Since I had to deal with the pulpit and motor mount, I cut two 6" round holes in the aft face of the cockpit, each just above the seat and a couple inches in from the bulkhead. If you are just dealing with a motor mount, a single access on the port side should be enough. To install the new motor mount, I first removed the rigid glass outboard bracket. Because I did not want to fill the old holes and drill new holes in the transom, I used the old bracket as a template for drilling holes in a previously finished piece of 1x10x15 mahogany base plate. This plate then could be installed using the old holes. Before mounting the base plate, I installed the new motor mount bolts on the plate with the threads and nuts on the outside. I then mounted and sealed the unit on the boat and installed the new mount on the plate. I used a w/m adjustable mount, but replaced the factory motor block with a better piece of solid mahogany. I use a short shaft 2HP Honda: it gets plenty of water when lowered, and is almost always out of the water when raised (sometime it will drag a bit when I bury the port toerail.) I have pictures I could send you if interested. I had intended to send pics to Bill, but never seemed to get it done. Hope this helps, Bob M15 #208 On Nov 25, 2006, at 4:55 PM, wcampion@aol.com wrote:
To All,
Thanks for the feedback. After reviewing Norm's method and several others, I'm not sure I want to cut into the transom, especially if I have to put back the piece I cut out. The louvered vent was originally purchased with the thought of adding it to the hatch doors, but I was thinking I could use it as an access to the transom. However, based on Norm's experience, it appears that a 6"x9" whole would not be sufficient and I don't want to open up an even larger whole. So I think I am going to use 2 6" round access plates cut into each of the lower part of the benchs, just forward of the transom. This should allow enough access to all of the bolts, I hope. If someone knows of a reason that this approach will not work, please let me know before I make the cut! Maybe in the next 2 weeks. The Holiday season is upon us, and the hustle and bustle is cutting into my tinkering time. Oh well, I still have Jan, Feb, Mar before I can launch anyway.
Take care all, Skip Eldersburg, MD M15 #201 (still thinkin' of a name)
-----Original Message----- From: tim@timtone.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 10:21 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Transom Access
I am also doing a version of this mod. It is quite high on the old priority list. The rigid glass outboard bracket is coming off and my spring loaded and adjustable unit is going on in its place. I have found that even with the long shaft on Mr. Yamaguchi it does not reach deep enough in lumps and the motor does not quit come far enough out of the water. On a starboard tack the bottom 4-6" of motor drags in the water and, although it may not have that much of an effect, it seems redundant to be tweaking trim and shifting crew weight for more boatspeed when your prop is being dragged through the water. ~:0) I also miss the ability to change the depth of the prop as required.
I had intended to use some deck plates for the access. I have five of them in the cockpit area of my other boat. They work well and are water tight, easy to fit and use.....and they are inexpensive. At least where I get them they are.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/hatches/sd336140-160/index.htm
I plan on an eight inch deckplate on both sides just above the bench seats on the inner transom.
Although I am almost certain this will be the way I go....the idea of having some added ventilation by installing a louvered unit has some appeal. At the very least, I do have to add some form of venting forward. I have developed a way to leave the foredeck hatch cracked about an inch, and locked, but am not too comfortable with that system and where I leave the boat during the season. Anybody have something that works well?
Cheers all, Tim Diebert M17 # 369 'Puff' Kelowna BC.....where it snowed four inches yesterday....and it is still here. ~:0(
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ______________________________________________________________________ __ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Bob and Judy Becker bobjudy2@comcast.net
participants (4)
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Robert Becker -
Steve Shenkel -
Timtone -
wcampion＠aol.com