I use standard lights that clip on port and stb stern cleats. They never get dunked. About LEDs...to be blunt I'd say don't buy them. Instead of LEDs, use standard lights and give all contact surfaces a liberal coating of dielectric grease. If you already have LEDs, seal the wires with a good caulk. For the last 2 or so yrs I've worked pt for a marine supply house who sells all types and brands of trailer lights. We see high LED failure rates (compared to the amount sold) and LED owners are changing back to standard lights. Most that come back are about a yr old and it isn't brand specific. It appears water gets into the assembly where the harness enters the fixture. They seal it with a rigid epoxy type material that doesn't stay tight around the wire insulation...water definitely gets inside and weeps out where the wires enter when I see them. My guess is the insulation shrinks enough to let water in. On a different tack but also related to trailering...high numbers of oil filled (greaseless) wheel hubs are giving problems with leaks. We see too many unhappy users on these too. It's another product (like LEDs) where it works fine on land (big rig trucks) but not so fine on boat trailers. Grease and bearing protectors (Bearing Buddy types) are way more reliable and predictable. Bill **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
I have a lightbar that I remove prior to launching. It is notched to fit the back end of the trailer and is padded with foam pipe insulation and held on with bungie cords. I've had real good luck with that arrangement. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release Date: 5/31/2008 12:25 PM
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