Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc. Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere??? I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well. I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it ! Jazz
I keep the anchor set-up on my M-15 simple: I use a simple danforth anchor with the rode marked by colored yarn at 10Ft intervals I do not use a roller store under cabin berth to keep weight in center and low in boat coil rode & chain into 5 gallon plastic bucket figure out where on the boat I want to tie the boat end of the rode before throwing the anchor into the water don't forget to tie the boat end before throwing the anchor into the water count the interval markers as the anchor goes into the water Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 2:58 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: Anchor rollers... Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc. Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere??? I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well. I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it ! Jazz
i recommend to store the anchor(s), chains(s) and rode(s) in starboard cockpit locker (to be on the opposite side from the motor). another option, but more difficult to collect the ground tackle, is to store under the v-berth (to keep the weight forward to counterbalance the crew in the cockpit). below is the system i've used on my M15 and M17 - to launch the anchor = release ground tackle off the starboard/stern of the boat (this is the keep the rode away from the outboad's prop). lay out your scope (less about 17 feet ... see below). tie off the rode to the starboard rear cleat and set the anchor. walk the remaining rode to the bow and tie to the cleat. tie off the bitter end of the rode (i tie to the base of the mast). return to the cockpit and release the rode from the stern/starboard cleat (this is why you 'reserved' 17 feet of your anchor line scope). the boat will now turn into the wind. to retrieve the anchor = walk the rode to the rear starboard cleat. untie the rode's bitter end. pull in the rode/chain and anchor. (i usually pull in 70-80% of the scope and then start the outboard. once the outboard has warmed up i then finish pulling in the ground tackle.) i flake the rode/chain into an anchor line bag as i retrieve the anchor. i then let the anchor and bagged rode/chain sit on the cockpit floor for about 1/2 hour so much of the water can drain before i stow the ground tackle in the cockpit locker. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jazzy
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 2:58 PM ..
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Wow a 22lb claw..... I currently have an 8lb "Danforth" type anchor that came with the boat which I have been tossing over the side from the cockpit the past couple of years... Its been mostly fine except for when the wind swings widely and then it can be iffy to reset on its own without help from me, or when trying to set on rockier bottoms.. In anticipation of cruising farther north up the BC coast (fouler weather & tougher anchoring conditions) I am just now in the process of installing a roller mounted Rocna 6 (13.2 lb) on the bow of my M17 for what I expect to be better performance. ( I will keep the Danforth that I can toss from the cockpit as my backup). In my case the Rocna 6 just barely fits on the bow as there is a retractable bow sprit for my asym on the port side of the stem plate. I am using a roller mounted just to the starboard side of the stem plate, the roller is mounted on a 4 inch wide, 1 inch thick teak sprit that protrudes about 10 inches beyond the bow. I had to trim the starboard teak tow rail back a few inches at the tip of the bow to accommodate the width of the teak sprit. The boat already has a seal-able deck pipe on the starboard side for storing the anchor rode in the v berth which was installed by the previous owner who had hung the Danforth from the pulpit. I have a 5 gallon bucket secured at the bow in the v berth and plan to use a suspended piece of 3 inch diameter PVC pipe running on an incline from under the deck pipe across into the bucket to route the rode into the bucket without getting the v berth too wet. My rode consists of 30ft of 1/4 chain and 150ft of nylon. The 1 inch teak plank was just the ticket to provide a solid mount as it's a fair amount of weight to be bouncing around out there in rough weather since I wanted to be sure the roller forward was far enough to provide adequate clearance in front of the bow to keep the anchor from carving up the gelcoat as the anchor is deployed and retrieved on and off the roller in rough weather. While I am not expecting to leave my boat anchored unattended for large periods of time like you are, I am of the view that my new anchor set-up could probably serve that purpose as well for at least a few days of unattended mooring (this is just an informal personal musing on my part.. *no performance or warranty of this opinion is imputed or implied* )... Hopefully some of the other guys on the list with more experience will chime in.... My Rocna 6 set up is off the boat right now as I am just in the process of getting ready to do the final permanent mounting... I will post some pictures this weekend as soon as I get it mounted back on the boat.... Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity,** M17 Hull #353* On 6 June 2016 at 14:58, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote: Hi Jazz, You are opening Pandora's Box when you ask an anchoring question. 1) Anchor equipment is a direct function of the area where you want to anchor. An anchor is just a tool being asked to do a job. However, sea bottoms vary widely; lake bottoms are different situations. Is there tide to worry about? One foot? Three feet? or 25 feet? Each presents its own problems. 2) What type of bottom are you anchoring in? ...see your nautical chart for the answer to that question. When you have that answer, then you can select an anchor suitable for that type of bottom condition; a Danforth; or a Bruce type, are two favorites. 3) To give you a feel for anchor weights: on our 29 foot keel boat with 4 tons displacement, I had a 22 lb Danforth; a 15 lb HiTensile Danforth (with better holding power than the 22 lb Danforth); and a storm anchor that was a 35 lb. CQR that lived in the forepeake with lots of chain and 300 feet of rode. ( It was never used, but the feeling of having it aboard , ...just in case of another 3 day Nor'easter at anchor , was well worth carrying it.) The other two all had 150 foot rodes with about 10 feet of chain. 4) You want a minimum of two anchors plus rodes on board. Why? Well, you are anchored and some motorboat yahoo decides to anchor right on top of where your anchor is located. With consummate skill he then backs down, entangling your rode in his propeller and pulling your anchor out of the bottom. Now what do you do if you haven't got a second anchor available? 5) On our M15 we carried a small aluminum Danforth with chain and rode in a bucket in the port sail locker for daily use. We also carried an 8 lb Bruce, and we also have a 15 lb Fortress that was in the forward compartment - with chain and a long rode. 6) You want a nylon rode that is elastic, so that it absorbs the shock of wave action. Above all you have to protect your anchor from being ripped out of the bottom, since it is the only thing that is holding you in place. 7) If the wind picks up, then put out two anchors about 90 degrees apart - think the letter Y with your ship at the end of the vertical bar of the Y. Two anchors are always better than just one; and the boat won't sail around the anchor as much either. 8) Anchoring is an art learned the hard way. You learn from your mistakes, or the mistakes of others. 9) The longer the anchor rode the better the anchor holds. You want _horizontal pul_l on the anchor so that it dig in further as the load increases (which is the reason for the chain) and you should always anchor with at least a ratio of 10 to 1: ten feet of rode for each foot of water depth. So if you are anchoring in 10 feet of water depth (no tide) then your anchor rode has to be at least 100 feet long. Add two feet of tide to that equation and you now need 200 feet of rode. 10) These are values for rough conditions in an anchorage subjected to wind and wave action. If you are in a well protected cove, with no waves and he wind can't reach you, you can get by with shorter anchor rodes. However, the longer the rode, the more safety you have. Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
You all make valid points. I arrived at the 22lb bruce type anchor by advice from a salty old dude that has been anchoring out permanently for years and has watched many boats drag by him or into him..lol. He seemed very experienced and knowledgeable. He rowed over from his Westlake and asked about El Nino, then we got into this topic, so he was aware of what boat we were talking about. It's possible that I'd be anchored out there all summer and be gone from the boat for extensive periods, so I think overkill is the word here. He passed me his phone number to verify my work or help, so I'm happy about that! I'm still chasing down the last remnants of mooring leads but it doesn't look good, so mooring is plan B. Basically this anchor setup is a pseudo mooring ball, but I can't actually place a mooring ball. I'm def looking forward to those pics! I wonder if the 5 gallon bucket presents a sleeping obstacle? I want my anchor to be instantly deployable, so bowsprit type deal seems ideal if it's workable. Jazz
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote: Hi Jazz, What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor. To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring. His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it. I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself. The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring. However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy. I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated. Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself. A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners. Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people. There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode. But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat. So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that. I'll keep you guys posted. Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote: Hi Jazz, Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer. The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row. Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Ok, got a chance to look at charts...mud bottom. Depth between 10 and 60 feet... 13ft tides, very well protected harbor in general. The red circle is where I see boats anchored mostly. I'm home with a bad back so pardon all the mail if you're not interested, you all are my entertainment :) Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 3:57 PM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Where on the world chart would this be found? State? Country? Waterway? Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 4:30 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchor rollers... Ok, got a chance to look at charts...mud bottom. Depth between 10 and 60 feet... 13ft tides, very well protected harbor in general. The red circle is where I see boats anchored mostly. I'm home with a bad back so pardon all the mail if you're not interested, you all are my entertainment :) Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 3:57 PM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Gig harbor, washington Puget Sound On Jun 7, 2016 6:32 PM, "Steve Trapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Where on the world chart would this be found? State? Country? Waterway? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 4:30 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchor rollers...
Ok, got a chance to look at charts...mud bottom. Depth between 10 and 60 feet... 13ft tides, very well protected harbor in general. The red circle is where I see boats anchored mostly.
I'm home with a bad back so pardon all the mail if you're not interested, you all are my entertainment :)
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 3:57 PM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for
a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't
figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
Wow. If I had looked beyond Bud Bay on my chart of Puget Sound, I would have recognized it. Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:02 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchor rollers... Gig harbor, washington Puget Sound On Jun 7, 2016 6:32 PM, "Steve Trapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Where on the world chart would this be found? State? Country? Waterway? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 4:30 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchor rollers...
Ok, got a chance to look at charts...mud bottom. Depth between 10 and 60 feet... 13ft tides, very well protected harbor in general. The red circle is where I see boats anchored mostly.
I'm home with a bad back so pardon all the mail if you're not interested, you all are my entertainment :)
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 3:57 PM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for
a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't
figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
For those looking to build a lovely dinghy in scale with our micro-cruisers, the CLC Eastport ultralight is a possible fit: http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/rowboats/dinghies/eastport-ultralight-din... Their Eastport pram (linked on the above page) is the more normal size small boat dinghy (and also has sail option). Higher quality inflatable kayaks (Aire, NRS, other major brands) can work OK. A friend with a Ranger 20 uses an Aire inflatable kayak as his dinghy. It tows decently, paddles OK, carries a lot of weight, and deflates and gets much smaller to transport than a hardshell dinghy when on the road with boat & trailer. cheers, John S. On 06/07/2016 03:44 PM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I second John's comments on a good quality inflatable kayak as an option... I have an old school sterns inflatable kayak I use... Rugged construction, performs quite well for paddling in good & fair conditions in the ocean, tracks well behind the M17 on longer trips, & small enough when deflated to store on the boat... *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity,** M17 Hull #353* On 7 June 2016 at 16:32, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
For those looking to build a lovely dinghy in scale with our micro-cruisers, the CLC Eastport ultralight is a possible fit:
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/rowboats/dinghies/eastport-ultralight-din...
Their Eastport pram (linked on the above page) is the more normal size small boat dinghy (and also has sail option).
Higher quality inflatable kayaks (Aire, NRS, other major brands) can work OK. A friend with a Ranger 20 uses an Aire inflatable kayak as his dinghy. It tows decently, paddles OK, carries a lot of weight, and deflates and gets much smaller to transport than a hardshell dinghy when on the road with boat & trailer.
cheers, John S.
On 06/07/2016 03:44 PM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 6/7/2016 4:22 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
Inflatable dinghies sound great in principle, but, as you will soon discover, are absolutely miserable to row. The seating position is wrong; the oars are a joke. Been there with a AVON inflatable dinghy for all the same reasons, but after one season gave up on that miserable piece of ..... and bought a fiberglass Dyer 7'-9" dinghy that rowed well and sailed well. It also was easy to tow behind our 29 footer.
The NYMPH dinghy is easy to build; is light enough so that it is easy to car-top on a roof rack (we had a VW-Jetta wagon); and tows very nicely behind the M15. It's a dinghy that works; doesn't wet you from power boat wakes; and is a pleasure to row.
Caio, Connie
Hiya Connie, right on all counts. And believe me I've been searching for a little corner in all the marinas! But what I've learned from the locals is that you can anchor for 90 days a year without much hassle from anyone, so long as you show up occasionally and your boat looks nice. ( some have said 75 days). Right next door are the million dollar houses with influential people.
There is only one guy on "Gypsy Rose" that has secured permanent anchorage from the town and that's the guy I've been talking to. Took him 10 years!! He has an actual ball with his name on it. Everyone else is chain and rode.
But being out there so much, I know most of the boats, and some have been anchored forever. Only one has the pink sticker of death on it (notice to pursue ownership) and it's just a messy eyesore of a boat.
So in summary, it appears possible to anchor all summer so long as you're neat about it and respectful. I ordered a little inflatable dinghy that I'll just drag or roll up and take with if I end up going this route. I'm slowly gathering all I need, but the courage! It's scary to me to leave my boat and hop on an airplane for a week at a time. I continue to scour for moorage. Tacoma has some, but I'd love to be in the harbor 7 min from home. I was offered a 30ft slip for 240.00 but just couldn't pull the trigger on that.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Jazz On Jun 7, 2016 9:58 AM, "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 6/6/2016 4:58 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Hi Jazz,
What you really are discussing is not anchoring, but having a mooring in the harbor.
To do this legally, you need approval from the Harbor Master for a fixed mooring.
His approval is dependent on space available. If he says OK that is where you can place a mooring, you then have to buy proper mooring equipment which meets the Harbor Master's regulations
The first item you need is a mushroom anchor. Then you need chain; a swivel; and the mooring line, ending in a pick-up float with your name on it.
I haven't the slightest idea of how small mushroom anchors are made; but generally a boat yard will then put the mooring in for you (and take it out at the end of the season). (I just checked Defender Industries catalog: mushroom anchors start at 25 lbs and go up in 25 lb increments. My guess is that a 50 lb mushroom should be enough for an M15) A 50 lb mushroom is light enough so that you can put it in place yourself.
The mushroom anchor is designed to bury itself slowly into the harbor bottom; the swivel allows your boat to move in any direction around your mooring.
However, if you have a mooring, you will then need some sort of dinghy to row from the boat yard, that will keep an eye on your dinghy (or public dock) to your boat. Public docks are iffy, since dinghys can easily disappear. That's why it pays to use a boatyard as a base for your dinghy.
I needed a dinghy for that reason; built a Bolger NYMPH and it was an excellent dinghy; light weight and lots of fun to row longer distances. Bolger they modified the originalk design by adding 12 inches to the width of the NYMPH bottom. This was now called the Reubens NYMPH. A slight weight increase but much more stability getting in and out for the uninitiated.
Another possibility is that a boatyard might have moorings that they will rent to you. Then you can use theirs and not have to buy the equipment yourself.
A second thought is: an M15 doesn't require much water depth to float. A marina might have a "close to shore" space where a larger keel boat won't fit (not enough water at low tide) but that would be fine for your M15. Give it a try. These sorts of berths were available in Connecticut and were mostly used by catboat owners.
Ciao, Connie
Hi all, I was wondering if I might get some pics or atleast descriptions of
your anchor setups. I'd love a little sprit/roller set up, but can't figure how to get around the furler, nav light etc.
Also, I have the a deck pipe up there to pass rode through the deck, and there's some sort of anchor holding device on the rail. Where do you guys put your feet when you sleep if the rain and rope live there somewhere???
I'm planning on about 20 ft of chain and 100 ish of rode. Also an overkill anchor so I can leave it in the harbor for days. A local who anchors out there suggested 30lbs. I found a 22lb claw type I'm liking. And have my 8lb Danforth setup as well.
I don't even know what else to ask, so lemme have it !
Jazz
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
participants (6)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Dave Scobie -
Jazzy -
John Schinnerer -
Keith R. Martin -
Steve Trapp