re-rigging with swageless fittings
Has anyone re-rigged their M15 with swageless fittings? I'm thinking about rigging my M15 with Hayn Hi-Mod eyes (part 14CTE18). Riggingonly.com has them for only $28.91 each, and it appeals to me to re-rig myself with just hand tools- and that I can then replace the rigging in the future with just $30 worth of 316 wire. The Hi-Mod doesn't have any cone or other parts to replace when disassembling and reassembling, so it can be taken apart regularly to inspect also. I have a couple questions: -I've seen that 15.5" is the spec for factory shrouds, would it be better to just make the new ones exactly that long instead of measuring the old ones? -If I use the old shrouds as a length template, how much length should I remove (if any) to account for stretch in the new wire? -How much length should I add to the forestay to allow for proper rake? My current three stays are the same length, and I have the forestay in the very last hole on the stay adjuster in order to get enough weather helm. Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
Tyler... I would copy the old lengths. Use stay adjustor on the side shrouds and for the head stay, I would use a 1/4 inch turnbuckle. There's plenty of adjustment available on the stay adjusters if you get some stretch. The turnbuckle up front works well. See you at Cruiser Challenge. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jul 17, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
Has anyone re-rigged their M15 with swageless fittings?
I'm thinking about rigging my M15 with Hayn Hi-Mod eyes (part 14CTE18). Riggingonly.com has them for only $28.91 each, and it appeals to me to re-rig myself with just hand tools- and that I can then replace the rigging in the future with just $30 worth of 316 wire. The Hi-Mod doesn't have any cone or other parts to replace when disassembling and reassembling, so it can be taken apart regularly to inspect also.
I have a couple questions:
-I've seen that 15.5" is the spec for factory shrouds, would it be better to just make the new ones exactly that long instead of measuring the old ones?
-If I use the old shrouds as a length template, how much length should I remove (if any) to account for stretch in the new wire?
-How much length should I add to the forestay to allow for proper rake? My current three stays are the same length, and I have the forestay in the very last hole on the stay adjuster in order to get enough weather helm.
Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
Tyler- Sounds like you have it about right- if your wires are the same length the forestay should be on about the last notch; in other words with the three wires were set up and the boat was well-tuned, the forestay would be 2 or 3 inches longer. I don't know the number of your boat, but when I first started building the 15 I realized that I could cut the wires all the same and that there was enough play in the adjusters to tune the boat, but I came to realize that sailors were simply setting the adjustors in the middle which limited the amount of rake. At that point I made the forestay a few inches longer, which made everybody happy. Apparently your boat is in the first batch. I'd stay with 1/8" wire, which is enough of an overkill that you won't have to worry about stretch, or drawing. 3/16 is just more weight aloft, and more windage. And I prefer the rig to be a bit loose so you don't need a turnbuckle. I keep the rig just loose enough so that I can pull the forestay adjuster with one hand an insert the pin with the other. I remember racing against you- maybe at lake Pleasant- and you moved the boat very well. If you're staying in the same water as Bernard you're doing great. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, July 17, 2015 10:35 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: re-rigging with swageless fittings Tyler... I would copy the old lengths. Use stay adjustor on the side shrouds and for the head stay, I would use a 1/4 inch turnbuckle. There's plenty of adjustment available on the stay adjusters if you get some stretch. The turnbuckle up front works well. See you at Cruiser Challenge. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jul 17, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
Has anyone re-rigged their M15 with swageless fittings?
I'm thinking about rigging my M15 with Hayn Hi-Mod eyes (part 14CTE18). Riggingonly.com has them for only $28.91 each, and it appeals to me to re-rig myself with just hand tools- and that I can then replace the rigging in the future with just $30 worth of 316 wire. The Hi-Mod doesn't have any cone or other parts to replace when disassembling and reassembling, so it can be taken apart regularly to inspect also.
I have a couple questions:
-I've seen that 15.5" is the spec for factory shrouds, would it be better to just make the new ones exactly that long instead of measuring the old ones?
-If I use the old shrouds as a length template, how much length should I remove (if any) to account for stretch in the new wire?
-How much length should I add to the forestay to allow for proper rake? My current three stays are the same length, and I have the forestay in the very last hole on the stay adjuster in order to get enough weather helm.
Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
Tyler- Sounds like you have it about right- if your wires are the same length the forestay should be on about the last notch; in other words with the three wires were set up and the boat was well-tuned, the forestay would be 2 or 3 inches longer. I don't know the number of your boat, but when I first started building the 15 I realized that I could cut the wires all the same and that there was enough play in the adjusters to tune the boat, but I came to realize that sailors were simply setting the adjustors in the middle which limited the amount of rake. At that point I made the forestay a few inches longer, which made everybody happy. Apparently your boat is in the first batch. I'd stay with 1/8" wire, which is enough of an overkill that you won't have to worry about stretch, or drawing. 3/16 is just more weight aloft, and more windage. And I prefer the rig to be a bit loose so you don't need a turnbuckle. I keep the rig just loose enough so that I can pull the forestay adjuster with one hand an insert the pin with the other. I remember racing against you- maybe at lake Pleasant- and you moved the boat very well. If you're staying in the same water as Bernard you're doing great. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, July 17, 2015 10:35 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: re-rigging with swageless fittings Tyler... I would copy the old lengths. Use stay adjustor on the side shrouds and for the head stay, I would use a 1/4 inch turnbuckle. There's plenty of adjustment available on the stay adjusters if you get some stretch. The turnbuckle up front works well. See you at Cruiser Challenge. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jul 17, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
Has anyone re-rigged their M15 with swageless fittings?
I'm thinking about rigging my M15 with Hayn Hi-Mod eyes (part 14CTE18). Riggingonly.com has them for only $28.91 each, and it appeals to me to re-rig myself with just hand tools- and that I can then replace the rigging in the future with just $30 worth of 316 wire. The Hi-Mod doesn't have any cone or other parts to replace when disassembling and reassembling, so it can be taken apart regularly to inspect also.
I have a couple questions:
-I've seen that 15.5" is the spec for factory shrouds, would it be better to just make the new ones exactly that long instead of measuring the old ones?
-If I use the old shrouds as a length template, how much length should I remove (if any) to account for stretch in the new wire?
-How much length should I add to the forestay to allow for proper rake? My current three stays are the same length, and I have the forestay in the very last hole on the stay adjuster in order to get enough weather helm.
Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
participants (4)
-
Bob Eeg -
Henry Rodriguez -
jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org -
Tyler Backman