I’ve read that it’s not recommended to trailer with motor attached. I’ve seen how the motor causes my transom to flex. I’ve got ideas on how to reduce the flexing. * Wedge a 2x4 between the motor and the transom bracket, and drawing them together, taking slack out by tightening a rope around them, thereby reducing the bouncing movement of the motor. *** (best?) Fastening (2)strips 2” wide 16”or longer of 3/8” stainless vertically on the inside of the transom and bolting the bracket through them, since the flexing is along a horizontal line. Additionally 2 more strips slightly longer than the distance from top to bottom bolts of bracket on the outside of the transom ** Putting in a larger backing plate, extending several inches beyond the bolts all the way around. * Putting in a core of something between the transom and cockpit wall. Opinions? Jim Hymes
My solution was to have a motor bracket welded to the trailer frame, along with a piece of square 2" tubing with a bow stop V block on top, used as a mast crutch. Takes the weight of the mast off the bow pulpit. The motor bracket is welded to the trailer tongue and is braced to this mast crutch. The motor rides fine there but even that has some strain on it. Better there than on the transom though. Even more so if the motor is a four stroke, which weighs much more than the little 4 hp 2 stroke. On Sep 7, 2011, at 11:25 PM, Jim hymes wrote:
I’ve read that it’s not recommended to trailer with motor attached. I’ve seen how the motor causes my transom to flex. I’ve got ideas on how to reduce the flexing.
* Wedge a 2x4 between the motor and the transom bracket, and drawing them together, taking slack out by tightening a rope around them, thereby reducing the bouncing movement of the motor. *** (best?) Fastening (2)strips 2” wide 16”or longer of 3/8” stainless vertically on the inside of the transom and bolting the bracket through them, since the flexing is along a horizontal line. Additionally 2 more strips slightly longer than the distance from top to bottom bolts of bracket on the outside of the transom ** Putting in a larger backing plate, extending several inches beyond the bolts all the way around. * Putting in a core of something between the transom and cockpit wall. Opinions?
Jim Hymes
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Here's a link to a set of strong backing plates sold through Catalina Direct. Their mounting holes match some of Garelick's equally solid outboard motor brackets. The vertical orientation adds to the systems' strength: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_I... Gordon On Sep 7, 2011, at 11:25 PM, Jim hymes wrote:
I’ve read that it’s not recommended to trailer with motor attached. I’ve seen how the motor causes my transom to flex. I’ve got ideas on how to reduce the flexing.
* Wedge a 2x4 between the motor and the transom bracket, and drawing them together, taking slack out by tightening a rope around them, thereby reducing the bouncing movement of the motor. *** (best?) Fastening (2)strips 2” wide 16”or longer of 3/8” stainless vertically on the inside of the transom and bolting the bracket through them, since the flexing is along a horizontal line. Additionally 2 more strips slightly longer than the distance from top to bottom bolts of bracket on the outside of the transom ** Putting in a larger backing plate, extending several inches beyond the bolts all the way around. * Putting in a core of something between the transom and cockpit wall. Opinions?
Jim Hymes
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
participants (3)
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Gordon Gilbert -
Howard Audsley -
Jim hymes