Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
Larry, Your setup is what I first had in mind. I thought of adding the turning block to keep the line low like in the Harken pictures, but your reasoning (and experience) seem to show it's not necessary. The reason I wasn't planning to use the Harken endstops is that they seem to cut several inches off the distance the car can travel. Is this a problem? Thanks for the help. A picture's worth a lot of words. By the way, there seems to be a lot of friction between car and track. Does this free up with use? Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
Rick, Not sure why the friction. I have not mounted my system yet, but the car on the track just zips back and forth freely. Just tipping the track slightly when holding it the car shoots to the low end. Do you have Harken CB spec track? Bill On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 6:36 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
By the way, there seems to be a lot of friction between car and track. Does this free up with use?
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
Larry, Just finished the installation (carefully reading the instructions), and it looks pretty much like yours. I'll be trying it out in a Spring Regatta on Saturday. Thanks to you and all the others for the tips and suggestions. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
Hi Larry, Just an update on my experience so far with the windward sheeting car. I tried it both without and then with the turning blocks, and found that for my sailing style the turning blocks are a great addition. Without them I found it tricky to pull the car all the way to windward without getting my hand right down next to the car, and even then had to use a foot to push it the last inch or two. Seemed kind of awkward. I added the turning blocks mounted vertically at each end of the track, and ran one continuous line from one eyestrap through the car and back to the first turning block over to the other block and back through the car to the other eyestrap. Now I can grab the line anywhere between the blocks and pull the car right up against the windward stop from anywhere in the cockpit. I then leave it there as if it were pinstopped, using the mainsheet to depower if necessary. Maybe costs a little in sail shape, but then the main is luffing anyway, and it's a small price to pay for the huge improvement in flexibility and ease of control. It sure has improved our tacking performance. Don't have a picture right now, but will post one soon. Rick M17 633 Lynne L On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 11:00 PM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
I use turning blocks with this model sheeting car as well. I found the additional mechanical advantage allows me to make adjustments with very little effort. Larry is just a big-wristed guy I guess. t On Sun, Apr 22, 2012 at 5:40 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Larry,
Just an update on my experience so far with the windward sheeting car. I tried it both without and then with the turning blocks, and found that for my sailing style the turning blocks are a great addition. Without them I found it tricky to pull the car all the way to windward without getting my hand right down next to the car, and even then had to use a foot to push it the last inch or two. Seemed kind of awkward. I added the turning blocks mounted vertically at each end of the track, and ran one continuous line from one eyestrap through the car and back to the first turning block over to the other block and back through the car to the other eyestrap. Now I can grab the line anywhere between the blocks and pull the car right up against the windward stop from anywhere in the cockpit. I then leave it there as if it were pinstopped, using the mainsheet to depower if necessary. Maybe costs a little in sail shape, but then the main is luffing anyway, and it's a small price to pay for the huge improvement in flexibility and ease of control. It sure has improved our tacking performance. Don't have a picture right now, but will post one soon.
Rick M17 633 Lynne L
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 11:00 PM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
participants (4)
-
Bill Wickett -
Larry E Yake -
Rick Davies -
Tom Smith