I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
Tom, Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Good point, Rick, but sometimes thing get so bad so fast that I need one hand to hold onto the boat while reefing. We all adapt to whatever rigging we have, but winter days are conducive to planning the better way. Anyway, thanks for the comments. Tom Jenkins On Dec 10, 2009, at 1:42 PM, Rick Davies wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Rick, Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring. Thanks, Bill Wickett M17 #622 On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Bill, I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer. Tom M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door). On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively. Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast. That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself! Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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PS I would make reefing lines #1 on your list. You can't beat knowing that you can reef easily when you need to. Rick On 12/10/09, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Rick, I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description. Bill On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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I thought of running the halyards back to the edge of the cabin top when i first had the boat, but it turned out that it's so easy to get at the mast from the companionway it didn't seem worth the effort and expense, not to mention my aversion to drilling holes in the boat. The fewer fittings that will have to be rebedded someways down the road the better. KISS. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:09 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description.
Bill
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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It seems like I can keep one foot in the cockpit while hoisting the main. My jib halyard and downhaul are run to the cockpit but the main, main topping lift, and the reefing line for the tack are all on the mast. Rest of reefing lines are on boom. Works well for me. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of John Davies Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 8:20 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
I thought of running the halyards back to the edge of the cabin top when i first had the boat, but it turned out that it's so easy to get at the mast from the companionway it didn't seem worth the effort and expense, not to mention my aversion to drilling holes in the boat. The fewer fittings that will have to be rebedded someways down the road the better. KISS.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:09 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description.
Bill
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies
<jdavies104@gmail.com>
wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
> I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard > cleat with > a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the
reefing
> process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit > with one > hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. > Am I > missing something that might make a regular cleat the only > choice? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 Scintilla > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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I got rid of the jib halyard by installing a CDI furler, so now I don't have to leave the cockpit for anything. I never underestimate by ability to fall off the boat even in a dead calm. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:28 PM, <htmills@zoominternet.net> wrote:
It seems like I can keep one foot in the cockpit while hoisting the main.
My jib halyard and downhaul are run to the cockpit but the main, main topping lift, and the reefing line for the tack are all on the mast. Rest of reefing lines are on boom.
Works well for me.
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of John Davies Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 8:20 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
I thought of running the halyards back to the edge of the cabin top when i first had the boat, but it turned out that it's so easy to get at the mast from the companionway it didn't seem worth the effort and expense, not to mention my aversion to drilling holes in the boat. The fewer fittings that will have to be rebedded someways down the road the better. KISS.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:09 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description.
Bill
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies
<jdavies104@gmail.com>
wrote:
Tom, > > Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the > luff > cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy > reefing > line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands > available > to tension and cleat the halyard. > > Rick > M-17 #633 > Lynne L > > On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote: > >> I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard >> cleat with >> a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing >> process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit >> with one >> hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. >> Am I >> missing something that might make a regular cleat the only >> choice? >> >> Thanks, >> Tom Jenkins >> M17 Scintilla >> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats >> >> Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! >> >> > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Rick et al., Egads, so many good solutions for the same problem! There are a couple of constraints in my book, however. I suppose I am stupidly careful, but enough folks have had waves "down the hatch" that I never leave the hatch open while sailing, so that lets out the nice V- berth step. I also will not sail on our local lakes without a second reef as easy to rig as the first. Beyond that, I will admit that I don't like to poke holes in fiberglass, so a spar-centric solution for halyard and reefing control seems optimal. While trying to figure out how Joe runs both forward reef points with one line, and checking out GO's super-organized setup, I had another thought. The Ronstan RF5 swivelling camcleat platform could be mounted to the side of the mast where the halyard cleat now resides. If the sheave- camcleat assembly is swiveled 90 degrees (i.e., directly aft) and the fasteners hold, one could raise and lower the main from the cockpit, and the extra halyard line could be coiled on a boom cleat. Hmmmm. I thank all of you for sharing your cat-skinning ideas. Tom Jenkins On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:19 PM, John Davies wrote:
I thought of running the halyards back to the edge of the cabin top when i first had the boat, but it turned out that it's so easy to get at the mast from the companionway it didn't seem worth the effort and expense, not to mention my aversion to drilling holes in the boat. The fewer fittings that will have to be rebedded someways down the road the better. KISS.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:09 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description.
Bill
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
> I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard > cleat with > a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the > reefing > process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit > with one > hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. > Am I > missing something that might make a regular cleat the only > choice? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 Scintilla > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ > montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
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Twice I've had to reef in the rain and didn't like having the companionway open so I was glad to have the lines run back to the back edge of the cabin top. I also tend to keep the dropboards in most of the time. Just call me Mr. Chicken. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 8:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
I thought of running the halyards back to the edge of the cabin top when i first had the boat, but it turned out that it's so easy to get at the mast from the companionway it didn't seem worth the effort and expense, not to mention my aversion to drilling holes in the boat. The fewer fittings that will have to be rebedded someways down the road the better. KISS.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:09 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
I thought your horn was a hook. Thanks for the description.
Bill
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:05 PM, John Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
> I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat > with > a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing > process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with > one > hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I > missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 Scintilla > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Rick: Heaving too--good idea. Haven't tried that on my M17 yet for reefing. I like to work on the starboard side to reef too, for the same reasons you give--halyard and reef lines are starboard side. --Gary Hyde 2005 M17 #637 sailboat 'Hydeaway 2' On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:05 PM, John Davies wrote:
My "horn", which is no more than a reefing hook, is piggy-backed on the screw that bolts the boom to the gooseneck on the starboard side. I have a reefing line from the aft end of the boom through the leach cringle down to a turning block and cleat on the starboard side of the boom. My reefing procedure is to heave to with the jib backed on the starboard side, which calms thing down a lot even in a good blow. I want to work from the starboard side since both the main halyard cleat and the reefing cleat and block are on the starboard side of the mast and boom respectively.
Hove to, and standing in the companionway with one foot on the step and the other on the aft end of the v berth, things are pretty stable while easing the halyard, hooking the luff cringle, and recleating the halyard and it's easy to work with two hands. Then I can move aft and cleat down the reefing line on the leach. Now it's ready to go, after the reefing ties are made fast.
That said, in dusty conditions the overriding rule is always one hand for the boat and one for yourself!
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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I ran my main halyard down to the base of the mast and thru a block and then ran it toward the hand rail where I put a turning block and then ran it back to a Spinlock PXR Clamcleat. The camcleat is a little like a line clutch. With this setup I can raise/lower the main halyard without moving to the mast. I have a mark on the halyard to show how far to drop it for each reef point. For the forward reefing lines I have mine set up somewhat similar to what Tom has but without the beckets. Instead I put a padeye on the bottom of the boom and ran a line long enough for both reef lines. I put in a knot on each side of padey. Each line runs up to the cringle and back down to a block just behind the gooseneck and back to a cleat. I leave just enough slack so when the main is all the way up the reefing line comes back to the cleat. The line runs through the cleat with a stopper knot. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Joe, I have thought about it, and I still can't picture your forward reefing setup. Do you have a block and cleat on each side of the boom, with the first reefing line going to one block and the second reefing line going to the other? Saying you had a "line long enough for both reefs lines" makes it sound (at least to me) as if you only need one line. I can't picture this. Tom On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:06 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
I ran my main halyard down to the base of the mast and thru a block and then ran it toward the hand rail where I put a turning block and then ran it back to a Spinlock PXR Clamcleat. The camcleat is a little like a line clutch. With this setup I can raise/lower the main halyard without moving to the mast. I have a mark on the halyard to show how far to drop it for each reef point. For the forward reefing lines I have mine set up somewhat similar to what Tom has but without the beckets. Instead I put a padeye on the bottom of the boom and ran a line long enough for both reef lines. I put in a knot on each side of padey. Each line runs up to the cringle and back down to a block just behind the gooseneck and back to a cleat. I leave just enough slack so when the main is all the way up the reefing line comes back to the cleat. The line runs through the cleat with a stopper knot. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Tom, Let me try to clarify. Perhaps I will start from the cleat on the boom and go from there. I put two hollow bottom cleats , one on each side of the boom back from the gooseneck so that they are located above the drop boards. One will be used for reef #1 and the other will be used for reef #2. Let's start with the cleat on the starboard side. Tie a stopper knot and run the line through the hollow area beneath the horns on the cleat and forward to a block on the starboard side of the boom. The block needs to be mounted as close to the gooseneck as possible. Run the line thru the block and go up the starboard side of the mainsail luff to the first cringle. Run the line thru the cringle and down the port side of the mainsail luff. Put an eye strap on bottom of the boom as close to the goose neck as possible. Run the line through the eye strap. With the mainsail all the way up pull the line through the eyestrap just enough to pull out the slack. Using a magic marker, mark the line where it enters the eyestrap. Pull out the line and tie a stopper knot. Put the line back thru the eye strap and tie another stopper knot right next to the eye strap. These two knots, one on each side of the eye strap, should be big enough to keep the line from pulling through from either direction. We have just installed reef #1. Now to do reef #2, take the line which should have exited the eyestrap to starboard, run the line up the starboard luff of the mainsail and through the second cringle and back down the port side of the mainsail luff to the second block installed on the port side of the boom, again, mounted as close to the goose neck as possible. Run the line through the block and lead it aft along the portside of the boom to the port side mounted cleat. Run the line through the cleat and put in a stopper knot and cut off the remaining line. I arranged the lines that come through each cleat so that the stopper knots are on the bottom part of the cleat. This makes it real easy to just grab the stopper knot and pull down. I use a much simpler method of reefing the aft reefing points. No blocks. Just an eye strap and a hollow base cleat for each reefing point. The first reefing line starts by being tied off to an eyestrap and run up to the first cringle and back down the othe side of the sail to a cleat. Normally the location of the eyestrap and cleat would be slightly aft of a perpendicular line running down from the cringle to the boom. To take out the guess work of where to place the hardware reef down the first reefing point and pull the foot tight and mount the hardware a wee bit aft. Repeat the same thing for the 2nd reef. Since the two reefing lines running up and down are not right on top of one another you can put both cleats on the same side of the boom or put one on one side and one on the other to match the logic of the forward reefing lines. I have the main halyard running back to a camcleat at the aft edge of the cabin top. Make a practice run of using the reefing lines. Lower the mainsail and pull down on reef line #1. This is the one on the starboard side cleat. Get it all nice and tight the way you want it. Pull the halyard to take all the slack out of the now reefed down main. Where the halyard comes out of my clam cleat I whipped a contrastng colored line on the halyard a couple of inches out from the cam cleat. This little trick will now alow me to drop the main to a predetermined spot and cleat off the halyard and now focus on the reefing lines. I did this for both reefing points so that my halyard has two very obvious marks that I can see in the day time and feel in the dark. If you are cleating off at the mast you can do the same thing and mark the halyard where you would temporarily cleat off while you work on the reefing lines. Sorry to be so wordy. But I hope this clears things up. Again, this is just one way to do a reefing line. How you finally decide to do yours depends on what you are comfortable with and more importantly what method you actually use because it's just too easy not to. Good luck, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 9:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
Joe, I have thought about it, and I still can't picture your forward reefing setup. Do you have a block and cleat on each side of the boom, with the first reefing line going to one block and the second reefing line going to the other? Saying you had a "line long enough for both reefs lines" makes it sound (at least to me) as if you only need one line. I can't picture this.
Tom
On Dec 10, 2009, at 5:06 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
I ran my main halyard down to the base of the mast and thru a block and then ran it toward the hand rail where I put a turning block and then ran it back to a Spinlock PXR Clamcleat. The camcleat is a little like a line clutch. With this setup I can raise/lower the main halyard without moving to the mast. I have a mark on the halyard to show how far to drop it for each reef point. For the forward reefing lines I have mine set up somewhat similar to what Tom has but without the beckets. Instead I put a padeye on the bottom of the boom and ran a line long enough for both reef lines. I put in a knot on each side of padey. Each line runs up to the cringle and back down to a block just behind the gooseneck and back to a cleat. I leave just enough slack so when the main is all the way up the reefing line comes back to the cleat. The line runs through the cleat with a stopper knot. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleat on M17 mast
Bill,
I'm not sure what a gooseneck horn is, but I presently have a large stainless reefing hook on the starboard end of the clevis pin through the tack cringle. I rigged a short tag of line through each reef cringle, with a monkey's fist on one end to hold it in the cringle, and a loop on he other end to throw over the hook. This works fine, and is easier than working cringles over the hook, but it is slower to shake out a reef than I would like. I am planning on putting a small cheek block with becket on either side of the boom just behind the gooseneck fitting, with jam cleats a foot or so aft. The two reefing lines will run from the opposite becket, through the reef cringle, down to the block, and back to the jam cleat. The aft reefing lines will be similar, but the lines will be anchored on eyestraps opposite. Lucky me, I will get to try the system out at Havasu in February, but I still don't think the halyard setup on the mast is optimal. It would be nice to run the main halyard through a spring-loaded turning block at the mast base, and back to a winch on the cabin top, but it is harder to rig at the ramp, and the cabin-top geometry runs a line over the hatch, if I recall correctly. Let's face it: fiddling with rigging is half the fun on days when the boat sits on a trailer.
Tom
M17 hull 626 (must have been in the mold when yours went out the door).
On Dec 10, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Rick,
Where have you mounted the gooseneck horn. Our boat does not have any reefing lines rigged and that is #2 on the list for spring.
Thanks,
Bill Wickett M17 #622
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 4:42 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
Why do you have to cleat it with one hand? After hooking the luff cringle over the gooseneck horn, (or cleating off the jiffy reefing line, if you happen to have one), there should be two hands available to tension and cleat the halyard.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On 12/10/09, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
I wonder if anyone out there has replaced the main halyard cleat with a large jam cleat (or even a cam cleat) to facilitate the reefing process. I find it cumbersome to reach out from the cockpit with one hand and cleat the halyard off while trying to keep it taut. Am I missing something that might make a regular cleat the only choice?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Joe, Now, that is a thorough explanation! I had a "duh" moment after my last post, when I finally pictured reefing lines exiting the same bottom-mounted eye strap in opposite directions. That is indeed similar to what I am planning. Your aft setup is really simple, and I assume effective. I intended to mount blocks in the system (maybe because I still think like a heavy-boom Nor'Sea guy), but it takes no effort to raise such a light boom to the reef cringles, so your tactic gets the nod. I do have a final question on your main halyard setup; did you mount a standup (spring-loaded) swivel block on the mast base, or on the cabin roof? It seems as if the former would be a little easier to install and rig at the ramp. Thanks for all the good ideas. Tom On Dec 11, 2009, at 9:49 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Let me try to clarify. Perhaps I will start from the cleat on the boom and go from there. I put two hollow bottom cleats , one on each side of the boom back from the gooseneck so that they are located above the drop boards. One will be used for reef #1 and the other will be used for reef #2. Let's start with the cleat on the starboard side. Tie a stopper knot and run the line through the hollow area beneath the horns on the cleat and forward to a block on the starboard side of the boom. The block needs to be mounted as close to the gooseneck as possible. Run the line thru the block and go up the starboard side of the mainsail luff to the first cringle. Run the line thru the cringle and down the port side of the mainsail luff. Put an eye strap on bottom of the boom as close to the goose neck as possible. Run the line through the eye strap. With the mainsail all the way up pull the line through the eyestrap just enough to pull out the slack. Using a magic marker, mark the line where it enters the eyestrap. Pull out the line and tie a stopper knot. Put the line back thru the eye strap and tie another stopper knot right next to the eye strap. These two knots, one on each side of the eye strap, should be big enough to keep the line from pulling through from either direction. We have just installed reef #1. Now to do reef #2, take the line which should have exited the eyestrap to starboard, run the line up the starboard luff of the mainsail and through the second cringle and back down the port side of the mainsail luff to the second block installed on the port side of the boom, again, mounted as close to the goose neck as possible. Run the line through the block and lead it aft along the portside of the boom to the port side mounted cleat. Run the line through the cleat and put in a stopper knot and cut off the remaining line. I arranged the lines that come through each cleat so that the stopper knots are on the bottom part of the cleat. This makes it real easy to just grab the stopper knot and pull down. I use a much simpler method of reefing the aft reefing points. No blocks. Just an eye strap and a hollow base cleat for each reefing point. The first reefing line starts by being tied off to an eyestrap and run up to the first cringle and back down the othe side of the sail to a cleat. Normally the location of the eyestrap and cleat would be slightly aft of a perpendicular line running down from the cringle to the boom. To take out the guess work of where to place the hardware reef down the first reefing point and pull the foot tight and mount the hardware a wee bit aft. Repeat the same thing for the 2nd reef. Since the two reefing lines running up and down are not right on top of one another you can put both cleats on the same side of the boom or put one on one side and one on the other to match the logic of the forward reefing lines. I have the main halyard running back to a camcleat at the aft edge of the cabin top. Make a practice run of using the reefing lines. Lower the mainsail and pull down on reef line #1. This is the one on the starboard side cleat. Get it all nice and tight the way you want it. Pull the halyard to take all the slack out of the now reefed down main. Where the halyard comes out of my clam cleat I whipped a contrastng colored line on the halyard a couple of inches out from the cam cleat. This little trick will now alow me to drop the main to a predetermined spot and cleat off the halyard and now focus on the reefing lines. I did this for both reefing points so that my halyard has two very obvious marks that I can see in the day time and feel in the dark. If you are cleating off at the mast you can do the same thing and mark the halyard where you would temporarily cleat off while you work on the reefing lines. Sorry to be so wordy. But I hope this clears things up. Again, this is just one way to do a reefing line. How you finally decide to do yours depends on what you are comfortable with and more importantly what method you actually use because it's just too easy not to. Good luck, Joe
participants (7)
-
Bill Wickett -
Gary M Hyde -
htmills＠zoominternet.net -
Joe Murphy -
John Davies -
Rick Davies
-
Tom Jenkins