Harken windward sheeting traveler
Rick, I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps. These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it. Good luck Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old holes (which look fine) could be used as is, but that was assuming re-using the original bolts. Anybody have any ideas about what I should do?
Thanks in advance, knowing that help will be on the way,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws. the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws. :: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine --- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old holes (which look fine) could be used as is, but that was assuming re-using the original bolts. Anybody have any ideas about what I should do?
Thanks in advance, knowing that help will be on the way,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old holes (which look fine) could be used as is, but that was assuming re-using the original bolts. Anybody have any ideas about what I should do?
Thanks in advance, knowing that help will be on the way,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes. On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old holes (which look fine) could be used as is, but that was assuming re-using the original bolts. Anybody have any ideas about what I should do?
Thanks in advance, knowing that help will be on the way,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
Bill, I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track. Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work? Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old holes (which look fine) could be used as is, but that was assuming re-using the original bolts. Anybody have any ideas about what I should do?
Thanks in advance, knowing that help will be on the way,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
<
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta. -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34.40. This is the track I have. Not installed yet, boat is still under cover, but I expect to fill all holes and drill and pot with epoxy on new slightly different ( by .070")centers. Will have to cut a slight amount from each end to fit the end caps.
These tracks will fit the windward sheeting cars 2744 / 2745 / 2746. I have the 2744 car. Looking forward to using it.
Good luck
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I am installing a Harken windward sheeting traveler and track, and found that the Harken track mounts with #12 bolts, which look to be about half the diameter of the bolts for the OEM track. Since others have installed this track, I suppose that the bolt size is OK, but I wanted to ask advice as to whether I can use the old holes without filling them in and drilling a smaller size hole. Bob Eeg said that the old
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4876 - Release Date: 03/17/12
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick,
I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf
Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track (captive ball track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length (23.6"). Harken #2720.600 List $34----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4876 - Release Date: 03/17/12
Rick, Lightly countersink the top of the hole going through the deck. Mebbe 3/32" or less depth. Just in the top of the gelcoat. Dab a bit of sealant into the c/s. This will be under the track. You should also have had to drill thru the track for the nd stops. Apply a small bead of sealant around the holes on the bottom sides. Lightly tighten the screws/nuts. Then wait till next day to finish tightening. This will compress the set sealant. Should be the St. Patricks day charm. I'm working on mine today as well. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On 3/17/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car. I haven't drilled any holes yet, so if this doesn't seem like a good plan I hope someone tells me.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
we are using the same track as Bill, the Harken 2720.600MM Trk-SB CB 600MM Low Profile, on the Sage 17. the fasteners used are 10-32 oval head machine screws.
the end stop for this track is the Harken '173A End Stop-SB'. the end stops also uses a 10-32 oval head machine screws.
:: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine
--- On Wed, 3/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
> Rick, > > I am doing the same. I believe that the track spec uses #10 screws > (5mm) not #12 for mounting. I am away today so can't look at the > actual card with the track. Here is the PDF from the Harken site > http://www.harken.com/pdf/4972.pdf > > Which track are you using? The Harken Low Beam 22mm CB track > (captive ball > track) is available with 4" hole centers (same as the OEM hole > spacing) but only in a much longer length (6 feet) that needs > cutting down. Harken #373.6. List $93.60 22mm Low Beam CB track is > also available with 100mm hole spacing (3.93") in a 600mm length > (23.6"). > Harken #2720.600 List $34----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4876 - Release Date: 03/17/12
Oops! I cut the track short enough to miss the endstop screws, which is what caused my problem. Good thing I had to buy six feet! Thanks for straightening me out before I really screwed things up! Is the track hard to drill? My workshop resources are pretty basic. Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, Lightly countersink the top of the hole going through the deck. Mebbe 3/32" or less depth. Just in the top of the gelcoat. Dab a bit of sealant into the c/s. This will be under the track. You should also have had to drill thru the track for the nd stops. Apply a small bead of sealant around the holes on the bottom sides. Lightly tighten the screws/nuts. Then wait till next day to finish tightening. This will compress the set sealant. Should be the St. Patricks day charm. I'm working on mine today as well.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/17/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car.
Aluminum. Will cut fairly easily. Drill rpm medium low is better. Bit will grab when it starts to break through to the bottom side. Just don't push to hard. The track is a hollow extrusion so you have 2 surfaces to drill through. Once you drill the track, use that to mark the hole locations for the cockpit floor. End caps will take up more than an inch on the rail end. See attached pic showing new track beside the old. I have not drill it yet. Only got my cockpit holes filled with epoxy today. There is a pretty good instruction card in the package with the stops. It has measurements, drill diameters. I know, we are guys, we don't want to read instructions, maps, etc. Glad you have extra track. Bill On Sat, Mar 17, 2012 at 6:39 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Oops! I cut the track short enough to miss the endstop screws, which is what caused my problem. Good thing I had to buy six feet! Thanks for straightening me out before I really screwed things up! Is the track hard to drill? My workshop resources are pretty basic.
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, Lightly countersink the top of the hole going through the deck. Mebbe 3/32" or less depth. Just in the top of the gelcoat. Dab a bit of sealant into the c/s. This will be under the track. You should also have had to drill thru the track for the nd stops. Apply a small bead of sealant around the holes on the bottom sides. Lightly tighten the screws/nuts. Then wait till next day to finish tightening. This will compress the set sealant. Should be the St. Patricks day charm. I'm working on mine today as well.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/17/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote: > I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning > to leave > the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the > same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to > allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head > bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a > Harken 073 eyestrap > mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end > the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted > on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control > line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the > car.
Yeah, I know - when all else fails ...... Thanks, Bill, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Aluminum. Will cut fairly easily. Drill rpm medium low is better. Bit will grab when it starts to break through to the bottom side. Just don't push to hard. The track is a hollow extrusion so you have 2 surfaces to drill through. Once you drill the track, use that to mark the hole locations for the cockpit floor.
End caps will take up more than an inch on the rail end. See attached pic showing new track beside the old. I have not drill it yet. Only got my cockpit holes filled with epoxy today.
There is a pretty good instruction card in the package with the stops. It has measurements, drill diameters. I know, we are guys, we don't want to read instructions, maps, etc.
Glad you have extra track.
Bill
On Sat, Mar 17, 2012 at 6:39 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Oops! I cut the track short enough to miss the endstop screws, which is what caused my problem. Good thing I had to buy six feet! Thanks for straightening me out before I really screwed things up! Is the track hard to drill? My workshop resources are pretty basic.
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, Lightly countersink the top of the hole going through the deck. Mebbe 3/32" or less depth. Just in the top of the gelcoat. Dab a bit of sealant into the c/s. This will be under the track. You should also have had to drill thru the track for the nd stops. Apply a small bead of sealant around the holes on the bottom sides. Lightly tighten the screws/nuts. Then wait till next day to finish tightening. This will compress the set sealant. Should be the St. Patricks day charm. I'm working on mine today as well.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/17/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the ot
participants (4)
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Bill Wickett -
Rick Davies -
Tim Diebert -
W David Scobie