the M15 and M17 began to share the same centerboard about 1990. the M15 centerboard is much smaller than the cast iron M17's. you don't need to 'drop' the centerboard to change the pendent. you just need to 'over extend' the board to reach the attachment point. i don't believe the 'M15 centerboard M17's' have a stop pin. this means you just lift the boat, untie the stop-knot, and let the board 'over extend', etc. be sure to duplicate the length of the pendent and put a stop-knot in the same place on your new pendent. you never want to sail the boat with the centerboard 'over extended'. it will wobble and wiggle causing damage to the centerboard trunk and may work the pivot pin out ... which will result in you loosing the board. an 'over extended' board will also decrease the boat's performance. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve you Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com --- On Sun, 5/29/11, Mark House <itsmark@bresnan.net> wrote:
Tom:
I just went through the same thought process as you, but with an older cast iron CB M-17. I read everything I could find about how to take the CB out, as mine was in bad shape. Not sure but I think the fiberglass CB models fit like the older ones, but instead of 170 lb, you only have about 45 lb. to deal with. There's lots of good info on these sites:
http://msog.org/how-to/how-to.cfm
http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html
The photo site has info specifically about the fiberglass CB. Some folks have removed CBs by moving the boat back on the trailer, then jacking up the sterm. Others park over a ditch. Anyhow, I ended up finding a boat shop with a gantry crane to lift the boat. Expensive, but I was able to fix everything underneath that I thought needed attention, including a full inspection of the CB trunk. Good luck!
Mark House
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net>
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17
On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the
centerboard
pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.