Welcome! Another option is to ditch the oversize, overpowered, overweight motor that came with it and get something lighter and more size-appropriate. That's what I did (my boat also came with an overkill Tohatsu 6 HP SailPro beast) - sold it and got a Honda 2.3. Some of us are quite happy with the Honda 2.3 hp. The Tohatsu/Mercury 3.5 hp would be a good option if you want ~1/3 more HP for only 10 lbs more than the Honda - and still ~20 lbs less than what you have. The Suzuki 2.5 hp would also be an option; anyone here have experience with that one? If the 6 HP beast is in decent running shape you can sell it for more than a smaller lighter replacement would cost you. Note that there are no new or recent model year motors over 3.5 hp that will save you any weight vs. the 6 HP you have. The 4-6 HP models are all the same carcass, so all the same weight (~60 lbs, as is the Honda 5 hp). Also they won't work any better in the transom notch for the most part. Won't work at all if you want reverse because they don't put reverse on anything under 4-6 hp carcass, so you have to spin it 180 for reverse and none of them will do that in the notch. But when your motor is 30 or at most 40 lbs instead of 60+, putting it on a mount affects your trim less. When you're sailing and it's raised and tilted (on a lifting mount), the power head (most of the weight) is nearly as far forward as it would be in the notch, and, the shaft will be well clear of the water even when heeling to that side. All factors to consider as you decide what to do... cheers, John On 5/30/22 19:40, randy kaminski wrote:
Thank you Larry!
Your suggestions came with perfect timing. The M17 came with a Tahatsu 6hp 4stroke and I tested the “fit” in the cut-out transom today. It was as you said—to tight on the handle side, and blocking the rudder swing on the other side—so I was shopping for a bracket.
I have two/three option though, so I might be able to keep a direct transom mount. My 6hp evinrude has a center handle, and I have a 4 hp tahatsu that might work.. I will try everything to follow your good advice.
I’ll check out the extension ladder also—thank you!!
I ordered end grain balsa for the deck repair, and will be lowering the centerboard keel next week for inspection...
Thanks again!!
Randy
On Mon, May 30, 2022 at 5:49 PM Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Randy, as a fellow owner of a 1976 M17 (CornDog), I can address a couple of your questions.
1. Transom cut-out. Use it! That is, if your outboard will fit there and have room for the prop to clear the rudder blade when turning. Most of the newer outboards seem to have the control arm on the port side now, which forces the motor to be mounted closer to the rudder. Clearance might be a problem. My outboard (2006 Suzuki 6hp) has the control arm more centered, so I can crowd the motor toward the port side to provide more prop clearance. There's not much room to pivot the motor, so the majority of the steering is done with the rudder. If that all sounds like good reasons NOT to use the cut-out, let me just say... the boat is balanced better with the motor there, rather than back on an adjustable mount. I tried moving mine onto one of those mounts a few years ago and frankly hated it. The motor was harder to reach to operate, the bracket was a hassle to raise and lower, and the weight was hanging farther aft on the boat. You don't want that. You want the weight as far forward as possible. With the motor on the bracket the boat felt like it was dragging its stern, even when motoring. I put the motor back in the cut-out and she felt right again.
2. Ladder. I use a Windline extendable three step mounted on the other side of the transom. Works great. They make a four step model now that would be even better. These ladders do put all the strain on a rather small mounting area so you'll need a good backing plate arrangement.
Larry Yake M17 #200 CornDog
On Sat, May 28, 2022 at 6:41 AM randy kaminski <randyk316@gmail.com> wrote:
Hello Group, and thank you for accepting me!
I’m hoping to be in the water as soon as possible but have a few questions—if it is better to ask them one at a time, please let me know.
1. Is it best to mount the outboard on the original transom cut-out? Advantage/disadvantages?
2. Ladder suggestions? I would like to easily climb out of the water if unexpectedly needed.
3. Has anyone added a wet locker on a pre-wet locker model—if so, how to or photos? (I would like the area for the fuel tank, and better cockpit drainage)
3. Information for original sink drain plumbing and cockpit drain(one of the previous owners added hoses and I want to be sure I have the most safe and effective fixtures)
4. Any books, or how-to set up guides that could be purchased or downloaded for the M17?
5. Suggestions? (I will be lowering the keel to inspect and service... I am replacing waterlogged balsa core in fore-deck and around mast step... just trying to get everything safe and functional now, but still considering upgrades...)
Thank you group!
Randy Kaminski (eastern upper peninsula of Michigan)
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com