Henry, Just a sailing freaks version of how we does it : Fixed gooseneck. Cunningham - Harken or equivalent part #s - # 341- 29mm Airblock swivel w/becket upper block in purchase. # 2657 -40mm Fiddle swivel w/camcleat reversed, at lower position - dyneema pennant attached to upper block and upper end of dyneema to 'reef hook' (welded eye - this pennant keeps the blocks off the mast - reduces 'chewing' the anodizing.) The cunningham may also serve as forward reef. Vang - lower block attached to mast plate organizer -#2655 40mm fiddle swivel - upper block -# 2658 40mm fiddle swivel w/becket and camcleat - this upper block is attached to a dyneema tail deadended at the mast step organizer shackle (no need to disconnect) and runs over a swivel bullet block attached to boom vang tang and terminated at shackle on the #2658 to cascade the vang purchase. Backstay adjuster - #2640 triple swivel at upper and #2648 triple swivel w/becket and camcleat at lower end - this is connected to a cascade at the backstay wire -no turnbuckle is required. Now - in the interest of full disclosure - having made my living in a previous life selling /fixing/storing/ boats - be nice and support your local sail store - OR if you are a cheap a** like me, search fleaBay with the part numbers and buy'em cheeep! Headsail tension is achieved using #7 Lewmar alum at top of house each side (more on this later) through a XAS double stopper to port and triple to starboard (two 'jib' halyards to port and Main and spinnaker pole up/dn to starboard) Halyards are 1/4 vectran- covered due to Arizona UV - could be much smaller but stoppers are at max small. NO stretch - they be new one - soooo colorful and clean! Long story and I am a TERRIBLE writer - but.. my most freq./loyal crew - Craig Painter didn't like trimming the headsails to the single halyard winch to port top of cabin without a cleat - what a wimp! (just kidding) -Race crew is in companionway standing on cabin sole when we be in racerboyz modality - we decided to mount two slightly larger winches (#7's) - one each side at top of house. Crew stands in/on cabin sole in companionway to trim - this allows him to use a winch from the cabin top and cross sheet if desired. The camcleats are mounted (careful here) to the top edge of the hatch slide railwood facing inboard - WAY too convenient and comfortable for crew too. I will take pictures of the layout next time I go sail - This allows for winch at: main haly (OVERKILL), spinnaker sheet/guy operated from cabin sole (companionway) and headsail halyards. Better if you see photo of it - - this works GREAT for racing crew or cruising double handed as the sheets are no longer in the cockpit (original winches are used as barney posts (snubbing winch) for fair lead to cabin top winches. When sailing single handed, I rarely use a sail over 135% and sheet to the coaming winches as customary. Let's not go to the mainsheet and why it is used (no traveler and comes above c/l) as some folks think it is nuts BUT it is a K.I.S.S. rig if ever was! Made adjustment to termination point location 2 weeks ago and we are higher and faster and come above c/l to weather if desired. Explanation and photos if desired at later date. M-17 Monster Speed Tip for the day - our backstay comes WAAAAY off on broad reach and run. The tip of the mast moves forward approx (really- no exaggeration here -) 2.5 FEET or more! The headstay goes slack side to side approx. 20 inches of play. - We affectionately call easing the backstay on a run 'hitingt the nitrous button!' - we routinely see a speed increase of 1 knot+ and more with the mast 'flopped' forward (it needs to be moderated on a reach as the headsail luff goes VERY soft and consequently hard to fly) I guarantee better speed by doing this or your money and shipping fully refunded! - ask Craig Painter. Sails: All around jib - 135% full hoist low clew (not decksweeper - but low) and 155% dacron genoa for light air - Mainsail - Loose foot with a sail slug or loop of dyneema (1/8" works well) at the clew - Outhaul is fine at 3:1 4:1 at most (little sail) My race main has floating tack and I tie the tack, cunni and reef cringles around the mast with ---you guessed it 1/8" dyneema. For your sails Pleeze-roll 'em don't stuff or fold - pleeeeze - your sails, performance and wallet will reward you and it takes no more time to roll 'em. That's what I find to be the cats pajamas on a M-17, your mileage may vary - always wear eye protection and remember - It is HIP to wear your PFD at all times upon exiting the tow vehicle on your sailing adventure! Note: any idiot with a computer and an internet connection can become a world clASS expert on anything - you have just witnessed a case by reading this ti-rantblufflebubber story - history be made! Take Care, Have Fun, Turn,Turn,Turn, Go Sailing GO Pete Seeger -may he rest in peace - with a banjo? - right!!;>). Peace to Pete, his family and the Clearwater. In a message dated 1/28/2014 8:47:26 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes: 1) For you performance oriented sailors, what is the best way to get luff tension in a blow, assuming a multi-part tackle or cascade on each: do you use a downhaul on the sliding gooseneck or Cunningham tackle on the sail? Both? I don't see a point in using a winch for halyard tension on a small boat; a winch takes two hands, a tackle only one. Does anyone use a fixed gooseneck? 2) At some point, if the money gods smile on me, I would like to replace the sails. Tanbark, of course, to match Chiquita and two of my dinghies! ;-) It would be nice to have a headsail for every wind condition but, considering that money IS an object, what headsails would you consider most important? I know this depends on the type of sailing but I like to sail in all conditions from light to heavy. I prefer heavy air. I have a couple of storm jibs of different sizes that should work on the M17. I don't race (yet) so no Mylar or tape drive sails for me. But I do not like to go slower than I have to. What is the best all around, general use jib? 110% ? 135% ? And what would you recommend for a light air sail: a 150% genoa or a 150% or larger nylon drifter? As for spinnakers, if and when I can afford one it will probably be an asymmetrical. 3) Mainsail: loose foot, shelf foot, or standard? I plan on either a 4:1 or 6:1 outhaul, preferably internal. If not a loose foot, bolt rope in the boom or slugs? -- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir