Very good to know, thank you! Jost On Fri, Feb 24, 2023 at 12:36 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Meanwhile on the dark side of ethanol in gas - it absorbs more water than ethanol-free gas, with various consequences. So if using E10 or any fuel with ethanol the "keep it fresh" and drain/run dry if stored any length is more important. From a small engine forum:
"Try to keep the carb empty when it sits long term. That ethanol draws up enough water to corrode the inside of it. Once you tear a few of these small carbs down it's pretty obvious what that alcohol does inside the passages when it sits a long time. My snowblower when I got it had the bowl corroded in the very bottom. One spot even pinholed right through. That's the ethanol's magic legacy. Luckily...can find ethanol free and that's what my small stuff gets and I still drain those carbs when they sit. If there's no drain on the bowl toss on one of those tiny plastic shut offs is there's enough room."
Stabilizers (Sta-Bil etc.) do not prevent the water absorption. Here's some tech on how they work:
"Products like Sta-Bil are known as oxidation inhibitors. Their objective is to slow the degradation of the fuel molecule by keeping the fuel and oxygen from reacting. This type of protective stabiliser will generally last for up to two years depending on the environment the fuel is stored. Humid areas don't last nearly as long as arid environments due to moisture. So think of the stabiliser as putting a protective barrier around the fuel molecule to keep it away from the air. Fuels stored in sealed metal containers will outlast fuels stored in naturally aspirated containers for the exact same reason."
And even more technical:
"Stuff like Stabil generally contains hindered phenolics that act as sacrificial molecules. That is, they react with oxygen before unsaturated materials in the gasoline can. BHT in food is an example of a hindered phenol. When all of this material is used up by reaction with oxygen, then the gasoline is vulnerable. Typically, additives use 2,5-dimethylhydroxy benzene as the antioxidant for fuels."
This also clarifies why you should add the stabilizer when you get the gas fresh. If you add it after the gas is half oxidated already, it will only inhibit further oxidation. It won't "restore" or reverse the oxidation that's already happened.
Also clarifies why fuller and more sealed containers reduce oxidation (and water condensation, depending on your climate).
Last year I moved from very dry inland to more humid coastal so I can't get away with what I did before, stored fuel here will degrade faster for multiple reasons.
cheers, John
On 2/24/23 07:11, casioqv wrote:
I recommend always filling engines and fuel cans through a filtering and
water separation funnel. This eliminated all fuel quality issues for me. I use an early 80s outboard on E10 gas with stabil added and have no problems. I often store the fuel for years before using it.
This is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF1CB-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000SOFLHK/ref=pd_aw_f...
sincerely, Tyler
-----Original Message-----
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com