I installed a Boomkicker on my M-15 this year. Sorry, no photos yet but here is one from the Boomkicker site: http://www.boomkicker.com/glstr_16.jpg The photo is a good illustration of the Boomkicker, however, you need a vang, which is not shown. The installation instructions are at: http://www.boomkicker.com/0312in.htm If I use the standard mast carrier, I can not step or unstep the mast with the Boomkicker in place. The bottom of the luff groove slide is about two inches from the base of the mast. This hits the top of the cabin and will not allow the holes in the mast to line up with the base plate. I have to loosen the two screws and move the Boomkicker up to get clearance. In normal use, I move the Boomkicker up before taking the mast down. I bungee the two rods to the mast to keep them from flopping around. The next time we go sailing, after raising the mast, I loosen the two screws and move the Boomkicker back in place. I put a piece of tape on the mast to indicate where to position it. Obviously, I need a Phillips screwdriver on the boat. I also must remember to move the Boomkicker before the admirable pulls the forestay pin. Otherwise, I wind up looking like a Keystone Cop mast held in one hand, while with the other I frantically locate and twirl the screw driver. I hope this disturbing illustration is as good a memory aid for you as it has been for me. I have a homemade mast crutch with a roller that is still in the developmental stage. It is taller than the regular mast crutch, and the Boomkicker works fine with it. No problem getting the bolt in or out with the mast at a steeper angle, so there is no need to move the Boomkicker up and down. A potential winter project is to see if I can find stainless steel thumbscrews and leave the screwdriver behind. I did not use the gooseneck stop for attaching the horizontal line from the sling. I tied it off to the eye on the gooseneck, where the downhaul loops through. There is enough room for both lines. I leave the line and sling tied to the gooseneck. When I install the boom, I move the Boomkicker rods to my left, and lower the gooseneck into the slot. I set the back end of the boom down. Next I fasten the downhaul in place. I push the sling in place over the rods. With my right hand I tilt the boom up, and slide the Boomkicker beneath the boom with my left. It is necessary to slightly bend the Boomkicker to get it under the boom. Finally, I attach the vang and tighten it slightly, so the boom does not bounce out when we drive to the ramp. Take down is basically the opposite, remove the vang, tilt the boom up, swing the Boomkicker to the side, lower the back of the boom, pull the sling off the rods, undo the downhaul, remove the boom, loosen the screws and slide the Boomkicker up, and finally retighten the screws and bungee the Boomkicker rods to the mast. The trickiest part of getting the Boomkicker to work is adjusting the length of that line between the sling and gooseneck. Too short, and you have too much tension in the spring rods. Too long, and the tension is so low the boom sags. I need to find a better method of adjusting the length than by tying and retying knots. It is necessary to occasionally redo the knots as they loosen and the line stretches. I like the Boomkicker, it is more trouble in the parking lot than a topping lift would be, but it is convent on the water. When you factor in that is about $50 more than a topping lift you have to set your own price for convenience. The Boomkicker will be easier to use if you keep you boat on the water than if you trailer. Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY