David, What a great way to solicit feed back on your new boat! Here is my 2 cents. 1) Mandatory immediate change - tie a stopper knot in the centerboard pendant 11 inch's above the bridge deck. The is a Jerry Montgomery post a year or so ago that specifies the length - check it to be sure but 11" is safe. Without this I will guarantee you will break the CB where the pin goes through it. The other way may be to gently lower the board, raise 2 inch's and mark the line and tie the stopper knot there. 2)Mainsheet cleating - lots of trade-offs here - sheeting at the end of the boom or near at the stern clears the cockpit for better creature comfort in the cockpit with more than one person. If you return the mainsheet cleat to the bridge deck it interferes with your passengers lower legs when adjusting the main or moving across the cockpit on a tack or jibe. The Bridge deck provides better sail shape control than the stern mount. 3)Stern ladder and traveler - Your rope ladder is taking up the original traveler holes. I am sure you know that rope ladders really don't work. I would do away with the rope ladder arrangement and put the traveler back on. You can leave the mainsheet cleat where it is until you decide what to do. 4)rigging - if no snags and no rust at the nicropress fitting I wouldn't worry. If there is visible rust at the nicropress fitting joint get them replaced quickly. That tape on all of the Nicropress fitting creates a great rust generating environment. Get rid of all of the tape. The forstay attachment is unique looking. If there is a turnbuckle under the tape make sure the rig is loose. The forestay and shrouds are not supposed to be tight on the M15. The M15 is a "floppy" rig. When close hauled the leward shroud should flop around a little. A little aft rake is good. Enough for now - I have #310 and am still using the original rigging. Thanks Doug Kelch __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail