I have knocked down my M15, and it stands right back up on it's own quickly, especially if you release the mainsheet. The boat cannot be capsized by strong winds- once the sails are in the water they're out of the wind and the boat won't go over any further. When this happened with my friend and I onboard in the California Delta, it wasn't really a scary experience, the boat still felt in control and we were having a fun time, but quickly reduced sail afterwards. Going downwind you can sail on the main alone, but upwind you must always keep it balanced. I highly recommend a smaller size heavy weather jib plus a deep 2nd or 3rd reef point if you plan to regularly sail in heavy winds. My M15 can still go to windward on the windiest days in San Francisco bay using this configuration. Unfortunately, I have not found a way to easily change headsails single handedly, but with someone at the tiller to sail slightly upwind on the main alone, going forward is okay. Singlehanded reefing is pretty relaxing, and can be done slowly and carefully even in the strongest wind once you are hove to, with the reefing line side of the boom facing upwind. I really recommend a WaveFront Marine tiller clutch to make this easier. Also, I don't recommend running lines to the cockpit if your boat doesn't have it already. It's easiest and safest to stand in the companionway for reefing, and you can easily reach halyards on the mast this way. Sincerely, Tyler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Rich" <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2022 11:06:00 PM Subject: M_Boats: Re: sailing in gusty winds - what to do John and I had a lovely sail back in the day with my M15. That is clearly the issue with the M15 is that with no backstay luffing the main bags the jib causing excessive heeling. In stiff winds cranking down on the vang and out haul, and making the jib tight as a drum is needed for that boat. Had I kept my M15 I would have gone with a furling jib because there is no other way to reduce the headsail on that boat. Also, sailing on main alone does not work well at all on an M15. Can’t go to windward. I know, I tried. The balance is terrible and there is excessive weather helm. You gotta have a jib. My SCAMP actually does quite well in a blow, because the luff the main method rather than pinch up into the wind works really well. That is Storer’s preferred method, and I have played with that with the SCAMP where I live, and it is really great. In a gust I just let out the main, and it is really controlled. For my sailing that is an advantage. In equal winds I find the SCAMP actually easier to sail. Now, the M15 is easier to reef for me, because I could heave to so easily. The SCAMP requires a park maneuver, and a quick lowering of the sail into the lazy jacks and then a reefing. Works but the M15 was easier in that regard. The M15 is super safe though. The excessive heel is no fun, but the boat is so stiff it will just stiffen right up. Even if by some chance you dumped it, the wind would dump and she would sit right back up I should think. I never did that. Daniel
On Sep 7, 2022, at 10:45 PM, John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yes, agreed Rusty, I didn't go into that detail. By 'losing power' I meant that making forward progress would be reduced. The heeling power is increased by the rounding/fullness of the jib, while the driving power is reduced. So on an M15 rounding up would be better than sheeting out. Except in an emergency where letting go the mainsheet prevents something more catastrophic.
On my M17 I have either option, I can round up and luff both sails in a gust, or I can reduce power on the main by sheeting out and/or lowering the traveler and still have the jib providing driving power.
cheers, John
On 9/7/22 21:51, Rusty Knorr via montgomery_boats wrote: John, one clarification on your comments as they pertain to the M15 and fractional rigs. Slackening the sheet does also slacken the forestay. But this gives more fullness to the jib, increasing not decreasing its power, and thus causing more heeling action. The sails should be as flat as possible in strong winds. Lots of tension on the downhaul/cunningham, outhaul, and maintaining sheet tension as much as possible by heading up, not sheeting out. Search for Dave Scobie’s excellent article on strong wind sailing as it pertains to M15’s and fractional rigs. Fair winds! www.rustyknorr.weebly.com
On Sep 7, 2022, at 4:36 PM, John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
For a few thoughts that are not specific to M15 but more in general...
On 9/7/22 12:14, Ernst van Gulijk wrote: Hello all, ... Having mastered the basics of rigging etc., I am currently practicing heaving to, reefing and arriving at the dock under sail only.
Great stuff to practice. Especially sail-out, sail-in. I don't care how many fast reaches someone can do out in the middle of a lake, if they motor to get there and motor back they're missing a lot of sailing skill development (that they might really want when their motor dies out there...).
...
All went well for the rest of the afternoon, until it was time to head back to the dock. This required crossing the lake (approx. 3-4 miles shore to shore). About midway through the crossing, an unexpected squall came through. Wind gusts were maybe bumping the 15MPH mark, causing the boat to heel beyond the 15-degree mark on my newly-installed heel gauge. Having read up on other posts, I recall folks talking about weather helm, and that 15-degrees was about the point where one needs to consider reducing the sail (further yet). Also recall that easing up on the main sheet is maybe not the thing to do (but so tempting).
First of all, "when in doubt, let it out" applies to the main sheet in terms of basic safety. With possible exceptions when you are about to go on the rocks or similar, and losing way is more dangerous than other consequences, letting the sheet out is a better strategy than getting knocked down.
The issue with easing the main sheet on an M15 is that you have no backstay, so forestay tension and thus jib luff tension depends somewhat on main sheet tension. If you slack the main sheet, your forestay and thus jib luff will slack some also, so you will lose power in the jib as well. Which might be a good thing, for the moment, in a brief strong gust. But if you are trying to go to windward it's a problem. I got to experience this once on Daniel Rich's M15.
1. I assume the smart thing to do would have been to reduce sail prior to the wind picking up (i.e., reef early), but how does one anticipate the unexpected?
If it's a brief passing squall or gust of a few moments, you can just luff along for a bit, as long as you are not in other danger from losing way.
As you learn to read the water & wind/sky at your location(s), you may be able to see the wind picking up significantly from a ways across the lake, more than you can yet. And then have a few moments to reef proactively.
2. Whereas my earlier reefing activity took place in calm waters, I have a difficult time envisioning doing this when winds are gusty and water is choppy. Is this something I just have to practice, starting out with calm conditions, and gradually working my way up to the 'hairier' conditions?
Yes, that's a good learning strategy. Heave to in order to reef - then you get to practice both. Assuming you have enough room to drift downwind for a few moments without going aground, that is. Which suggests a strategy of not sailing too close to a lee shore when you might need to heave to. Give yourself plenty of space.
It's possible to reef without heaving to once you've got it down and don't have to think it through. Head to wind, and quick get the reef in before you fall off too far. But until then, make it easier, heave to first. The gustier and choppier the conditions, the less time you will have to put in the reef if you are not hove to, the wind and waves will push you away from head to wind quicker. Also your reefing setup (lines cleats etc.) can make it easier, or harder, to put in a reef quickly.
3. Should I have dropped the head sail (115%)?
M15 sailors better to answer that...my guess would be if that kept you from being overpowered, yes. Sail on the main until the squall passes and then raise the jib again. The M17 does not sail so great on main alone, being a masthead rig and more jib-driven. But it does sail still. How about the M15?
4. What will happen beyond 15-degree of heel? Will she capsize? Here too, I recall folks talking about the boat 'stiffening' up, and sailing with the rail in the water. Being new to the boat, I simply do not know where the limits are, and certainly do not want to explore those being 2 miles of shore.
I think the info has been (from Dave S, Jerry, maybe others as well) that the M-boat hulls are optimal performers at about 15 degrees of heel. Meaning, most speed, least wetted surface.
But it won't capsize just from going beyond that - you'd have to get knocked down close to horizontal and have other things go wrong (sail digging into water, taking on lots of water, etc.) to actually capsize. You can heel quite a bit more and keep on sailing. It just takes some getting used to. Let her heel more than you're comfortable with, and see where she does 'stiffen up' (stops heeling more). As the heel increases, the sails catch less wind and the keel weight counters the heel more, which results in the 'stiffening up' at some point. You can always slack the mainsheet if it gets too scary, back off, try again. I still work on this...from sailing mostly un-ballasted dinghies, I have a reflex to not let a boat heel so much.
The video of David G that Rusty posted is great, you can see the gusts coming on the water and then heeling him over. He lets it go quite a ways before needing to round up. So you can get an idea of how far over the boat can heel and keep sailing, and/or recover easily. You can also see how when he does slack the mainsheet, the forestay/jib luff loses some tension.
Keep sailing! cheers, John
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com