Take off the rub rail. Inspect, use an end cutting tool to clean out any suspicious areas. I found none on my hull #258. I replaced the perforated rail with washers under all the nuts. It served to more securely clamp the hull to deck. I did have to put a bend in the washers so they would fit behind the bolts. Tedious but worth the peace of mind. If there is no evidence of water leaks inside, "don't fix it." Just plan on rebedding the rub rails as you rebolt them. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 10:22 AM E Blohm via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Lots of progress on my M17 #248 the last couple of days. In addition to bow to stern cleaning outside/inside I took off mast/standing rigging and inspected and all looks good.
I had some inspiration last night to use a heavy polish compound to the heavily oxidized hull to see how well it would work and 4 hours later the hull looks incredible. I’ll leave it as is for now with a polish/wax next spring.
The boat is going to a local sandblaster expert tonight for a bottom 3-4 layer paint removal. I’ll seal up a couple through hulls then put a bottom barrier on over winter.
I would like to reseal the deck joint since it probably is due for it. Any recommendations as far as that project is concerned?
Thanks
Erik
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