Chad, Perhaps starting small with a little bit of the Apostle Islands would be good. I've been up there before in my dad's MacGregor26 and we got caught in just such a weather event: beautiful sunny day, low winds, then POOF! high winds that almost knocked us over (the only time I've seen that boat's sails hit the water) and then crazy storm. I'm afraid my M15 would go straight over and I'd be up to my eyeballs in hypothermia... I was thinking that I'd like to use the opportunity to brush up on my crossing skills for going to the bahamas or, eventually, hawaii (some guy did it in a M15!)... mebbe I'll start small in water that cold. Thanks for the advice! Chris M15 Persephone On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 5:09 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> wrote:
Hi Chris,
I joined Gordon's trip to the Apostle Islands that he organized, there were 4 of us that spent a few days sailing around the islands and it was a lot of fun, plenty of open water sailing for me and my experience level. I don't think there is much to say about currents, but weather on Lake Superior has a nasty way of sneaking up on you REALLY fast with little warning and if you do end up going in the water the water temp (52 degrees) is cold enough where you don't have a lot of time. Lake Superior can be very unforgiving. In my opinion Lake Superior offers the best sailing you will find in the midwest with destinations such as the Apostle Islands and Isle Royale. One of the biggest advantages we have with our trailer sailers is we don't have to spend alot of time sailing to these destinations and nor do we have to pay the really high slip fees in order to enjoy these locations with our boats. I would suggest trailer to the Apostles and sail there as there really isn't anything between Duluth, and the Apostles. If you really are looking for an open water adventure then trailer your boat up to Grand Portage and do the crossing to Isle Royale. Between Isle Royale, the Flat Head and Slate Islands there is no shortage of beautiful places to take your boat.
Regards,
Chad
On Jan 8, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Chris Smith wrote:
On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> wrote:
Hi Gordon,
I ran into this problem (bow pulpit stanchions not fitting flush with curved deck) last summer just before our Apostle Islands trip. I
Not to hijack this thread, but Chad, can you elaborate on your Apostle Islands trip? I assume you're talking about Lake Superior. I am planning a trip there this summer to practice some coastal navigation and open sea sailing in my M15 and would appreciate any information on currents/weather/etc in the area. I'm thinking that I'd like to go from either Duluth or Two Harbors across the lake to the Apostles and back, if I have time.
Thanks!
Chris M15 Persephone
found I was able to clamp an adjustable wrench onto the base of the stanchion and bend it so it fit better. I masked each spot off really well before removing the stanchion and then used way more 3M 4200 then needed knowing there would be a bit of a gap. the excess flowed out onto the masking tape and then after it had cured tighten the bolts for the stanchion and then trim away the excess with a knife. I will probably do my hand rails before this spring.
--Chad
On Jan 8, 2009, at 3:51 PM, Gordon Gilbert wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, Howard and Doug. You make a good case for "sticking" with the tried and true marine sealants. I've done a fair bit of hardware bedding with polysulfide and am getting cleaner, successful results (lots of masking beforehand for one thing). The main job I was considering butyl for is my bow pulpit, which has a lot of legs, none of which seem to fit completely flush with the curved deck surface. My wife will be holding the pulpit in place while I snug the nuts, and I thought a less messy sealant would also reduce any friction between the workers. :)
Gordon
On Jan 8, 2009, at 2:50 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
If butyl tape is the stuff that comes in a black layer between two sheets of brown waxed paper (sorta like the flat taffy we used to get between sheets of waxed paper) yes. I used it to bed one of the pieces of 1/4 inch Lexan I used to replace the side lights. It has started to leak after about 4 years exposure. The exposed edges look dry and cracked.
I bedded the other in black silicone (the only place I would ever consider using silicone is to bed plastic) and it has not leaked. I would have used polysulfide, but all literature (exception was Bob Eeg) said anything but silicone would eventually eat up the Lexan. I tried a test piece and after several weeks, no damage I could see. Polysulfide won't hurt the boat and at worst, it would damage the glass and you would get to replace it. Polysulfide won't hurt any metal fittings or the glass boat and would be my #1 choice to bed anything plastic and is probably what I'd use today if I had to choose. With practice, the messy factor can be curtailed. Downside is it is slow to cure. You also don't want to fully tighten the fittings until after it has cured.
If the stuff you are thinking of is the automotive glass bedding and glazing compound, I'd consider it, but there is an adhesive factor. Just had two windshields replaced. Missed seeing it go together by a few minutes, but the installer tells me the only thing holding the windshield on is that stuff. Try a test piece.
Howard
On Jan 8, 2009, at 12:22 PM, Gordon Gilbert wrote:
I'm removing most of the deck hardware on my M-17, epoxy-lining the attachment holes and rebedding everything this winter. The fiberglass guy at the place I store my boat suggested that I use butyl tape as a bedding compound instead of polysulfide caulk. He said it's easier to work with and that he hasn't experienced a leak with it yet.
Considering how messy polysulfide caulk can be, I'm tempted to try butyl tape -- but most importantly I want a good, long-lasting seal. Does anyone out there have experience with the stuff?
Gordon M-17 #377 "Sapphire" Milwaukee
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