Fred, My transducer is mounted in the skeg on my 1987 17. I'm not sure just how far aft of the leading edge of the keel that is, but if you assume it is 8', then: at 5.0kts: 0.9sec reaction time at 4.0kts: 1.2sec at 3.0kts: 1.6sec at 2.5kts: 1.9sec at 2.0kts: 2.4sec at 1.5kts: 3.2sec at 1.0kts: 4.7sec at 0.5kts: 9.5sec I don't know about you, but I'd have to be traveling less than a half a knot to have enough time to: a. realize I had to do something. b. put my refreshing beverage down. c. sit up, straighten my blazer and don my cap so as to give the appearance of a helmsman with a clue. d. put the helm over. :-) Transducer bedded in a gob of silicone. Pic here: http://www.todspages.net/images/BBc09-BuscaUnderCockpit.jpg Tod Mills M17 #408 (1987 edition galley model) BuscaBrisas -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Frederick M Berthrong Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:16 AM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Depth Sounder Transducer location Jerry, I am trying ot locate a depth sounder transducer in hull. I am told they will work fine through solid fibreglass but not through any wood core. I am wanting to install it forward of the keel and as close to center as possible where the deadrise angle is low. Since the transducer works fine when held in the water along side and I can't get any sort of signal from inside (using petroleum jelly as a connecting agent) I am suspecting that there may be some sort of interference. However, I tried it in all sorts of places in hull and still it did not give a signal of any kind.) Before complaining to much to the supplier I want to make sure I know what I am talking about. Question: On the M-17, 1979 vintage (hull number 300) do you recall if there is any core material embedded in the fibreglass in that area? Or anywhere else in the hull? This would be in the first or second lap from the centerline. Thanks, Fred Berthrong M-17 #300 "Dulce" On Sun, 15 May 2005 13:50:19 -0700 "jerry" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> writes:
If I can butt in- monel is much harder than aluminum, tougher than stainless, and promotes less electrolysis when stailess hardware is installed on aluminum masts. I used it until sometime in the 80's, I would guess, when it began to get very hard to find for some reason. I then went to stainless.
I'm sure that there different grades of aluminum available, but only one is readily available; 356 if my memory is correct. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@optonline.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 9:01 AM Subject: M_Boats: Mast Rivets
Monel is probably stronger than aluminum, but not as easy to procure. Are there different grades of aluminum pop rivets? The rivets holding the two fixtures that I took off my mast seemed to be harder and much tighter than rivets I've cut in the past.
Thanks guys, Rick
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 08:59:49 -0700 From: Richard Lane <rqlhgl@ieee.org> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <4284CEF5.9050209@ieee.org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Rick Langer wrote:
Are the rivets used to hold fixtures to the mast aluminum or are they something else like stainless? I know they are not magnetic steel.
Thanks, Rick Langer
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The originals were Monel I believe. Dick
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 15:44:55 -0400 From: chbenneck@juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050513.165849.2584.2.chbenneck@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Rick,
The rivets holding the hardware on the mast are aluminum pop rivets.
When I rebuilt my mast I drilled all the rivets out so that I could remove the old hardware and reapply it to the new mast.
Connie
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