Clint, You may be familar with a drill bit called a UNI-BIT. It does an excellent job drilling aluminum, and it has graduations and is capable of drilling different diameter holes. ----- Original Message ----- From: <chbenneck@juno.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 2:43 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Replacing an M15 Mast
Hi Clint,
Sorry to hear about your loosing a mast. That can ruin your day!
It happened to me two years ago when an overzealous friend driving my car and towing the M15 out of the water after retrieving the boat, decided he was going to take boat and me on the deck, around the corner to his marina where I could lower the mast at leisure.
The only problem was a big oak tree branch across the road; and if we had made it to the street - power lines! Maybe the oak branch was a blessing in disguise!
Anyway, I too got a new mast from Dyer in North Branford and rebuilt my mast.
First thing you need is a Pop Rivet tool for fastening the various cleats and eyes to the mast.
To answer your direct question, here are the measurements I took off my original mast and transferred to the new one:
ALL DIMENSIONS ARE MEASURED FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE MAST.
Sail slide feed opening: from 32" to 38"
Down haul jam cleat: (STBD) 17" to centerline of cleat
Stainless Steel eye (P) 19" to center line of eye
P / STBD (2) 3 1/2" cleats - see your current configuration
Holes through bottom of mast: 1" up from bottom: 5/16" hole for bolt in mast base fitting
Hole through mast: 172.5" - 1/4" hole for bolt that holds shrouds and forestay
Fairleads Stainless Steel eye (P) at 42" center - main halyard
Front side of mast: 166" center - eye with block - for jib halyard
Forestay hole: front side of mast: 168.5" to 169.5" by 3/8" wide (chamfer the edges)
Boom stop: rivet in track groove - 20" from bottom of mast.
With your old mast as a pattern and these dimensions, you should now be able to rebuilt it.
Good luck.
Connie
M15 #400 LEPPO
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