You might find that there are extra holes in the flange that don't line up with the toe rail mounting holes. These were apparently used in initial construction to align the deck and hull. Be sure to fill these. Henry On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 7:42 PM E Blohm via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Stan thanks for input.
I have no leaking from hull joint within the boat so I think what I am going to do.
Remove metal rub rail and if everything checks good, cleaning it out if needed and adding a bead of 4200 to seam. Reinstall Rubrail with washers to spread the load from the joining bolts out a bit.
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On Jun 26, 2022, at 15:32, Stan Susman <stanpfa@pacbell.net> wrote:
Sorry, I have to step in, but 1st understand that I’m in S. Africa just now and have limited continuity and likely missed messages. Did Gary or anyone mention removing the rails before this strenuous operation. Or re drilling, or all the bs gary went thru to get it right. He did an awesome job. I’ll bet Gary said To himself“I need to do a great job here so I don’t ever need to do it again”. I estimate a boatyard would bid about $10,000. For that repair. So yes it’s very doable not the end of the world, and achievable by an average guy/gal. But Gary ain’t average he’s done dozens of tough boat fixes over the years . Sean M. same thing and tons of others. Ok, I’m ranting a bit, too much coffee maybe. I think it boils down to if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, if you got a boat as a project cool, but if you want to sail, make sure the rig stays in and go sailing.
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On Jun 26, 2022, at 7:02 PM, Gary H.Oberbeck <fairandsquare1@gmail.com> wrote:
via