I have an M-15 #302 1985 i didn't understand what you meant about the hull liner access panel but now i think i understand. There is a small triangular hollow space about 3" on a side with a triangular cross section and 24" high at the point of the bow. I see that from the inside, it comes to a flat spot 3" wide at the bow. I'm assuming that about 3" from that, is the outer hull, so there is a 3" deep space. I didn't even know that was there, but it's obvious now. What's difficult is that I don't think any of the round access panels fit, because the flat spot is only 3" wide and the access panels start at 4" in diameter. What It looks like i need is a rectangular 3" wide x 6" wide panel to be able to get at theback of the nuts for any type of ubolt and backing. I'd have to fiberglass in the backing board through this little window. is it hollow or cored with balsa? I don't know yet. i'm curious - How is there access to the bow eye nuts on the Montgomery's that have bow eyes? Larry From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> To: Lawrence Winiarski <lawrence_winiarski@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 12:29 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bow Eye or not to Bow Eye Lawerance: Your boat didnt come with a bow eye as the bow plate has a big eye for attaching the trailer winch line/strap. You want a ubolt boweye such as - http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/180-u-bolt You cut an access port at the forward end of the vberth through the hull liner. Use a hole saw to match the plate you choose - https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=Screw+in+deck+plate Back the ubolt with good marine OK hardwood shaped to confirm with the bow that you coat with resin and then fiberglass into place. Install the bow eye and bed with 3M4000 or 4200 or Sikaflex 291. The bow eye will be strong enough to lift the boat like a giant fish. A snubber should run off the bow cleat and have chafe protection (chocks help). I disagree with your idea of the attachment being low ... search net for photos of how people use a shock line for an anchor chain. Make sure where you install the bow eye it doesn't interfer with the trailer's bow stop. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com On Thu, May 31, 2018, 10:17 AM Lawrence Winiarski via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote: I'm thinking about putting a bow eye, or u-bolt in the bow stem closer to the waterline (My m-15 doesn't have one) . I've got a few reasons for wanting this. 1. I'd like a mooring attachment down low, so the line/pendant can't catch or chaffe. I want to have one of those big pool noodles to put aroundthe line as a float/stiffener to keep the mooring ball away from my nice boat and have the whole thing near water level. I learned the hard way the last time when my boat drifted around and around and around the ball, eventually wound up stuck to it. Seems therehas to be a better way. 2. Another attachment point for a mooring ball so there are 2 points if one fails. 3. I'd like to have a low attachment point for a snubber for the anchor in rougher waves. It just seems better to be pulling fromdown low, especially if the waves are coming sideways. I read through the archives and found thishttps://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1882/bow-eye-rebuild-kit-c-... but they say explicitly in the description "Never moor your boat from the trailer bow eye. It is intended to take the load from the trailer winch directly forward of the boat....." I see the point. Bolt's aren't meant for side loads, but but reading lots of stuff on the net, it seems LOTS of people moor from the bow eye, andit seems that while side loads are bad for the bolt, side loads are also a reason to attach closer to the waterline to make the boat less tippy. So what is the solution?