Hi Gordon, I ran into this problem (bow pulpit stanchions not fitting flush with curved deck) last summer just before our Apostle Islands trip. I found I was able to clamp an adjustable wrench onto the base of the stanchion and bend it so it fit better. I masked each spot off really well before removing the stanchion and then used way more 3M 4200 then needed knowing there would be a bit of a gap. the excess flowed out onto the masking tape and then after it had cured tighten the bolts for the stanchion and then trim away the excess with a knife. I will probably do my hand rails before this spring. --Chad On Jan 8, 2009, at 3:51 PM, Gordon Gilbert wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, Howard and Doug. You make a good case for "sticking" with the tried and true marine sealants. I've done a fair bit of hardware bedding with polysulfide and am getting cleaner, successful results (lots of masking beforehand for one thing). The main job I was considering butyl for is my bow pulpit, which has a lot of legs, none of which seem to fit completely flush with the curved deck surface. My wife will be holding the pulpit in place while I snug the nuts, and I thought a less messy sealant would also reduce any friction between the workers. :)
Gordon
On Jan 8, 2009, at 2:50 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
If butyl tape is the stuff that comes in a black layer between two sheets of brown waxed paper (sorta like the flat taffy we used to get between sheets of waxed paper) yes. I used it to bed one of the pieces of 1/4 inch Lexan I used to replace the side lights. It has started to leak after about 4 years exposure. The exposed edges look dry and cracked.
I bedded the other in black silicone (the only place I would ever consider using silicone is to bed plastic) and it has not leaked. I would have used polysulfide, but all literature (exception was Bob Eeg) said anything but silicone would eventually eat up the Lexan. I tried a test piece and after several weeks, no damage I could see. Polysulfide won't hurt the boat and at worst, it would damage the glass and you would get to replace it. Polysulfide won't hurt any metal fittings or the glass boat and would be my #1 choice to bed anything plastic and is probably what I'd use today if I had to choose. With practice, the messy factor can be curtailed. Downside is it is slow to cure. You also don't want to fully tighten the fittings until after it has cured.
If the stuff you are thinking of is the automotive glass bedding and glazing compound, I'd consider it, but there is an adhesive factor. Just had two windshields replaced. Missed seeing it go together by a few minutes, but the installer tells me the only thing holding the windshield on is that stuff. Try a test piece.
Howard
On Jan 8, 2009, at 12:22 PM, Gordon Gilbert wrote:
I'm removing most of the deck hardware on my M-17, epoxy-lining the attachment holes and rebedding everything this winter. The fiberglass guy at the place I store my boat suggested that I use butyl tape as a bedding compound instead of polysulfide caulk. He said it's easier to work with and that he hasn't experienced a leak with it yet.
Considering how messy polysulfide caulk can be, I'm tempted to try butyl tape -- but most importantly I want a good, long-lasting seal. Does anyone out there have experience with the stuff?
Gordon M-17 #377 "Sapphire" Milwaukee
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