I don't know how well two part poly adheres to aluminum toe rails or if it will chip. I will use (next time) zinc phosphate and good old Rustoleum black spray paint. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 8:17 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Thank you for the reply. Glad to hear everything is holding up well. I am thinking of making a cut athwartships across the deck near the forward end of the cabin and attempting to pry that part of the deck off in order to replace the rotted balsa core. I would then epoxy the skin back down paying special attention where it meets the deck.
For the toe rails I have some epoxy primer and some black two-part polyurethane. Yay or Nay? I'm thinking the polyurethane might be too brittle and chip where the blocks attach.
I have already replaced the windows using 3M Ultra High Bond double sided tape and Dow 795 industrial silicone adhesive. No mechanical fasteners were used. I found this technique for securing and sealing surface mount windows described, with minor variations, in several different articles on line. Apparently this is how windows are attached and sealed on a number of large production yachts.
I will leave the stem fitting as is for now but hope to eventually replace it with a short bowsprit/anchor roller assembly.
I am busy getting my VN23 Chiquita ready to launch in the next week or two. Did I mention we have had the earliest ice-out in 135 years!? Once Chiquita is in the water I can start the big projects on Monita. When I'm not out sailing, that is!
On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Yes, I am still on the list.
So far, the epoxy joint has held and no more leaks through it. At the time, I briefly considered prying the whole deck half off and cleaning up the hull deck joint and bedding it in 5200, but went with the Dremel grinding wheel instead to simply open up the joint and worked thickened epoxy in. Note, by hitting it with the grinding wheel and opening it up to about 1/16th or so, that left a rough edge on the inside of the joint to give the epoxy something to grab onto. Just worked it in with a putty knife and that was that. It has held up well. I did not.....would not ever......bed the rails in 5200. As is, they come off easy enough if you want them to, but with that tight bolt spacing, the joint is strong enough with it simply bolted on. Spend a bit of extra time on that stem fitting for the forestay. That is under incredible tension most of the time.
The toe rails still look the same....that rattle can spray paint job was a good option.
On bedding the Lexan window replacements, the window done in black silicone is holding well. The one done with the taffy like sealant tape is not. It quickly dried and cracked and will leak a bit in a downpour. It needs to be pried off and resealed with silicone.
Howard
On Apr 4, 2016, at 7:48 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
I was wondering if Howard Audsley monitors either this list or the Trailer Sailer site. He described sealing his hull/deck joint with epoxy and painting his aluminum toe rails on Dave Scobies old Sweet Pea site. I want to find out how these have held up over the years since I am looking at doing the same on Monita. Is the paint on the toe rails chipped or peeling? Is the epoxy he injected into the hull/deck joint still leak free or has it cracked? Does he wish he had used something like 5200 instead? I really like some of the repairs/mods he had done to Audasea. I would like to know how these have held up over the years and if he has any new words of caution.
Henry
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