Hi Chris, As a first step, before you begin, get WEST's Fiberglass Repair Handbook - (free from them or from WEST Marine stores or any other distributor of their products). This book gives you all the "how-to" information you need for the repairs that you want to make. Of course they are explaining the use of their WEST products for various applications and problems. This is a "must-have" book, since it goes into detail on preparation of an area; how to close holes and rebuild an area; how to use their fairing materials (load bearing or lightweight - these are mixed with their epoxy for application to an area). To do a good job, you have to be able to work on the whole hull - without straps - that interfere with access to where you want to work. One approach that has been used by other M-gang members is to hang the boat from a garage ceiling using the chain plates to support the hull as it is suspended. You will need other lines from stern cleats to keep the hull level. This approach give you full access to the keel area . When I totally refinished a ComPac 16, - including some damaged areas, I set up saw horses near the bow; put a section of an old wooden mast across the saw horse so that the ComPac bow would rest there. I did something similar at the stern. That also allowed me to then pull out the trailer from under the boat and gain full access to the areas where I wanted to work. Since an M15 isn't too heavy; it is easier to do it than you probably think. See the M - Archives for some of the lifting schemes that have been used for the M15s. I'd prefer to have the hull rest on blocks under the keel while I work..... and arrange some struts that fasten to the chain plates to keep the hull upright. But always: Think safety! Another approach would be to support the hull; put the keel on blocks and then support the hull with some suitable wood braces (cross brace as well so that they can't slip). Now you can work on everything from the water line upwards without hindrances. Just keep raising the questions as you progress. We're here to help. Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO Chris Smith wrote:
cool. Thanks, John. I've never done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on how the process went would be great.
Details like how he got at the hull to paint (suspend? jack it up?), if he brushed or sprayed it, how to keep the coats even (such as painting around straps if suspended), how many coats to put on, etc. would certainly be appreciated.
Did he fill the dings with epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the hull and build up some worn parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom of the sea?) with bondo, so I've got some experience in doing that - I just don't know if that's the best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that needs to be built up and glassed, so I've got some work to do before painting...
My sailing buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance paint in a spray can, which I've used with some success in painting some household stuff and getting a good glossy finish. Does that sound like a reasonable alternative?
Also, how expensive is the paint and how much did you use?
Thanks again for all the help!
Chris M15 - Persephone
On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM, John R. Butler <theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:
For Chris: My '86 had badly faded gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my age and thrice my capabilities, I'm 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded the entire hull, filled all dings, then painted it with an automotive two-part poly paint. Above the water, will last for years just like the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can give color photos and paint specs off line if wished.
John R. Butler theoldcat@cox.net First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264 Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361
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