Thanks, Dave, I'll give that a try. I keep the boat on a trailer, so I can just leave the rudder resting on the grass instead of pointing at the sky. Right now it's bend is always away from the sun. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thursday, May 19, 2016, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick:
lay the rudder flat, on its side, in a warm location (or in the sun) so the concave side of the board is done (ie, the tip that is out of line is down). please weights on the convex side to encourage the board to become flat.
for these plastic rudders don't store them on their tip leaning against a wall. this will case them to bend.
when on the boat pull the rudder up so it is JUST out of the water and not 'pointing towards the sky'. yes, the rudder will be sticking after of the boat. when stored 'towards the sky' the weight of the rudder will cause it to bend.
best way to store these rudders is on their side. such as on the v-berth, the garage/basement floor or a shelf in the garage or basement.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Thu, May 19, 2016 at 11:11 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Dave,
I've had persistent warping problems with my Ruddercraft kickup plastic rudder. It took a warped set during its first season, about an inch or more out of line at at the tip. I can correct it temporarily by clamping it in a reverse curve for several days, but it always comes back. How should I be storing it? During the season I leave it on the boat. Is there something else I should be doing?
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, May 19, 2016, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
until the mid-ish-80s the M17s centerboards were cast iron. when Jerry lost the casting mold when the casting company went bankrupt. as a result Jerry modified the M17s to use the M15's centerboard.
the M15's centerboard is a fiberglass shell filled the about 45# of lead shot (ie, BBs).
don't use stainless under the waterline. use silicon bronze for the rotation and stop pins.
the best M17 rudders are a solid piece of wood, mahogany, that slide up/down on a rod (silicone bronze or aluminum bronze .... NOT stainless steel. when in the up position the rudder is just above the depth of the shoal keel. these are what Jerry delivered on most of his boats (some of the early M17 rudders were simi-balanced and could not be moved up/down; also solid mahogany).
the plastic (HPDE i believe) kickup rudder that is available for the M17 isn't to Jerry's & Lyle's foil speck. the plastic rudders also warp, significantly, if not stored correctly.
as Jerry recommended the best move would be to cut a new centerboard out of steel plate, clean up the edges to make a bit of a foil. the cast iron boards weigh about 180#; though i've read some were lighter as noted: 165-170#
John Owens, JOWoodworks, can make you an original specification mahogany rudder & glulam tiller.
Contact Dwyer Aluminum Mast company for a new standing rig & boom.
Harry Pattison (E/P Custom Sails) or JudyB with Hyde Sails Direct can assist with sails. Both lofts know the M17 well.
I can assist you in getting the mast/boom hardware (ie, cleat(s), blocks, strapeyes, etc.)
I can also assist in the running rigging (sheets, halyards, and other sail control lines).
I can also make you the shrouds (I have Jerry's swaging tool ... used to make most of his M17s and M15s shrouds).
before investing i recommend you carefully inspect the shoal keel to confirm the steel ballast isn't rusting. if it is rusting a significant repair is required. also inspect the deck/cockpit for balsa core rot ... if the rot is significant the repair is also a lot of work. both issues are also costy.
if you need measurements for anything, or pictures of parts, or pictures of how the boat is set up i can, again, assist ... i have an '83 M17 here at the shop. should be identical you yours as she has a cast iron keel and the 'new' deck/cockpit setup (ie, three cockpit lockers, two cockpit locker drains and a slightly different house than the original deck mold). i also have direct contact with Jerry to assist in the project.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: Sage Marine - www.sagemairne.com :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com