Tyler, Get some Stainless steel "T-nuts" and through bold from inside right through the aft cabin bulkhead. You may have to remove the lower board with the groove in it that holds your companionway boards but the ss t-nuts lie flat against the surface and a slight relieving of the back of the removed lower board with the groove in it will allow you to bolt it on over the net ss. t-nuts. Then you have a very secure lashup. If the boxed wood that gave when the cb pennant was on it may have to be replaced. Check also damage at the cb stop nut down in the bottom of the keel. Do you relieve the tension on the pennant and allow the cb to sit on the boat trailer when you tow the boat? If you hang the whole keel from the pennant when you drive over bumps you could have weakened the wood fibers holding the cleat screws over time. Fair winds, Tom B. Monty 17, "AS-IS" On Tue, May 30, 2017 at 6:34 PM, Tyler Heerwagen via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Thanks John,Static load, maybe a bit of dry rot. I would love to do through bolts but the companionway has the groove that holds my lower hatch board in that location. Maybe there is some way to do it.Tyler
From: John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 4:17 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Cleat for centerboard pennant ripped out
Ouch!
Was that spontaneous failure under static load, or was there some shock to the cleat from the CB dropping or something?
I would say you need to rebuild that part of the companionway inside bottom frame. One approach would be to cleanly cut away everything broken and splintered. Make a nice clean shape to splice in new teak - I'm imagining a slight trapezoid, with smaller end up. Get a quality piece of straight, tight grain teak to replace what you cut out. Epoxy (thickened to fill any gaps in the joint) and screw it securely (up from underneath) to the remaining solid part of the old piece. After that is in place, trim/sand/fair as necessary to match edges, and re-glass where the glass was broken and had to be cut away (overlapping the old glass on either side and below to add support).
And if the old cleat was just screwed into the wood, you might want to through-bolt it when putting it back. You could use cap nuts on the cockpit side, with machine screws cut to length, to avoid protruding bolt ends in the cockpit side. Or nylon insert locknuts with bolts cut flush, which is probably how your winch bolts are done?
Another option is to use a cam cleat mounted vertically on the face of the inside (same face as the old cleat). That is, pennant comes off the winch and up through the cam cleat - when you pull the line up, it slides through the cleat, which can (should?) have a fairlead on it to keep the pennant close.
I mention this because that's how mine is set up - came that way from previous owner, and it looks to be original, because I don't see any marks from removing a horn-jam cleat like most others seem to have. Also because the cam cleat is in the ballpark of the right vintage to be original (1974). Don't have a picture of that to post but could get one if you want.
cheers, John S.
On 05/29/2017 05:56 PM, Tyler Heerwagen via montgomery_boats wrote:
Hi all, Looking for advice. My cleat for my centerboard line ripped out as shown. As you can see it was screwed into a bit of teak and actually broke the fiberglass frame surrounding it. Any experience with this? A better way to secure it? Any advice welcome! Thanks Tyler Heerwagen M-17 Seranita #232
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com