Ooooo........since Audasea is a galley model with a porta-potti, I'm all set! On Oct 23, 2009, at 4:10 PM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Howard,
I believe the law is that if you have accomodations with head and cooking facilities below, you can drink at anchor. That puts us in a questionable position I guess. We do have a porta potti, and we have cooked below, but it is not a permanent galley. Just have to play it as the cards are dealt I guess. I will look up the law.
Bill
On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 4:58 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net>wrote:
In addition to Connie's excellent advice, I would also add that on the older M17's at least, you also have the cockpit drain, sink drain and for those with the old knot meters, the hole for the transducer. So counting the cockpit locker (open to the boat) and hatch, you have at least 5 holes that could sink your boat. Good to check them all now and then. (Then have a beer).
BTW, in areas where you can't "sail under the influence" can you "anchor under the influence"?
Howard
On Oct 23, 2009, at 3:01 PM, Conbert H. Benneck wrote:
W David Scobie wrote:
Hi Gang,
May I add my two cents worth of input to this discussion....?
_*The first order of business*_ in any boat, large or small, is to do everything you possibly can to keep the outside water from ever getting inside the boat. If the water can't get inside the boat, then the boat keeps floating; whether lying flat in the water; or with the mast underwater, or even turned turtle. _*If water can't get inside the boat; the boat will still float.*_
To do that effectively you have close and secure every opening in the boat where water could intrude.
The first thing is to have sail locker lids that close and then can be locked in the closed position, to prevent the sail locker lids from opening in the event of a knock-down; swamping; or what-have-you. I added hasps to our old M15 sail locker lids so that I could add locks, and I set the hasps up so that with the lock removed, there was still enough friction so that the hasps wouldn't flop open by themselves. You had to use some degree of force to open them.
The next step was to add gasketing material under the sail locker lid, so that when the sail ocker was closed you had a good seal. As I recall, I used a 1 inch wide adhesive backed closed-cell foam strip that was located on the bottom of the locker lid so that it met the upper surface of the opening of the sail locker, and formed a complete seal of the lid.
With this accomplished, no water can get into the boat via the sail locker lids.
The remaining opening that has to be secured against water intrusion is the companionway. If the weather starts deteriorating, put the hatch boards in place, and close the companionway hatch cover before you start to reef. The companionway hatch also has to have some means of being locked in the closed position so that it can't slide open as a wave slides under the stern of the boat and the bow heads downwards into the wave trough. This would allow the companionway hatch to slide to the wide open position. On our M15, I had another hasp on the front lip of the companionway hatch and the upper hatch board so that I could lock the cabin when we were away from the boat. Closing this hasp and sliding a peg into the hasp securely fastened the companionway from inadvertently sliding open.
I had also added a 3" NICRO vent to the foredeck for ventilation. If weather threatened to deteriorate, the 3" vent was removed and the vent opening was closed with the screw-in plate.
Now the boat was totally closed up and any water that might try to come aboard stayed outside where it belonged.
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