Hi Rusty, First off: I didn't remove the teak toe rail at all. All I did was cut back about 6" from the beginning of the toe rail (at the bow) to give me enough room to mount the cleats that I had bought. The toe rail was cut, leaving 3/8" thickness of the original toe rail in place. You cut it with a back saw / hack saw / or almost any kind of fine toothed saw. Then you take a chisel and remove the teak until you have 3/8" left. Use a file to make the surface flat over it's length. I had teak bits and pieces in my scrap box in the shop. I took some and made the filler pieces that widened the toe rail to match the base of the chock I had bought. Then those pieces were bedded to the inboard side of the toe rail. Now, with proper bases for the cleats established. You drill your chock mounting holes about 1/16" oversize. Put some masking tape over the bottom of the hole in the cabin ceiling (to keep your thickened epoxy from dripping out of the hole) and fill the holes with thickened epoxy. When the epoxy has cured, redrill the holes through the hardened epoxy to the correct size, put bedding compound under your chocks and mount them with stainless bolts and washers (if you can find a proper sized stainless fender washer - large diameter washer - that would be the best to use). The fender washers will spread the load better than regular washers will. Oh, and shape the end of the toe rail leading to the chock in a pleasant curve or angle: Mine is probably at about 45 degrees, or maybe closer to 30 degrees - it was just cut by eye and refinished. Connie