Hi Joe, As a new owner, we are still learning. I learned a few things from the previous owner when checking out the boat. The shrouds are left attached. They are not drum tight when everything is up. In fact the lee shrouds are noticeable loose when sailing. I can just feel their resistance when raising the mast. I work from bow to stern and try not to retrace my steps (very much!). I have a soft sided tool bag with everything I need. Starting at the bow, I take off the strap that holds the mast on the forward crutch. This is just above the bow pulpit on an extended winch post. The forestay (no furler) is draped over this and down the winch post, held on with a plastic zip tie. Cut the zip tie with a pair of side cutters in the outside of the bag. Reach down and thread in the eye bolt attached to a turning block onto the winch post. This will turn the mast hauling line aft to the cockpit. Rig a 1/2" line to the jib halyard shackle with bowline and stopper knot, run the line through the turning block and take it aft to the cockpit outside of the shrouds. (I move it aft as I move aft, or if my crewmate is there, toss the coil aft) Take off the velcro wrap tie that contains the coiled halyards. Double check the cleating of the jib halyard. Work my way aft on the cabin top, removing ball bungee ties (2 or 3) that hold all the halyards and the forestay during travel. Cut the zip ties or loosen the velcro wrap ties that contain the coiled shrouds up to the mast. Remove the 3 velcro wraps that hold an 18" length of foam pipe insulation around the turnbuckles and the wire shrouds on each side. This prevents chaffing on the gel coat of the cabin sides top. Put the side cutters away, take out a small adjustable wrench, already sized for the nut on the mast pivot bolt. Same with a 6" ratchet with socket for the bolt head. Remove the bolt from the mast step, placing carefully beside it. Make sure the VHF and mast head lights wires are leading aft from the mast step. Step into the cockpit, take off the other 3 ball bungees that contain the back stay and keep the halyards and upper shrouds tight to the mast. Loosen the aft strap on the mast crutch coming up from the rudder gudgeons. Slide the mast aft till the foot is at the mast step. Step back up and insert the bolt, thread the nut and use my adjustable and ratchet to tighten up. Keep carrying that tool bag with you!! Facing forward in the cockpit, making sure the back stay parts are to my left and nothing is under foot. Take 3 turns around the starboard winch with the line from the bow turning block. Step under the mast and lift it with my left shoulder. Take up the line with my right hand, keep lifting with my left. Once I tighten the line again, the mast can just sit there in the air, even if it is not at 45 degrees. I can now haul on the line and lift it slowly, or push on up with my left hand, and just keep taking up the hoisting line with my right, till the mast is vertical. Those 3 wraps on the winch give you a lot of control if you want to stop the raising at any time. Once the mast is vertical, you can cleat it off. To be totally safe, keep tension on it and cleat it back on a stern cleat, or take the bitter end forward with you to the bow cleat. Don't depend on the clam cleats at the winch. Moving forward again (where is your tool bag? In your hand...right?) take the jib with you, and my forward dockline. (2 hands are just enough) I cleat the dock line on right now. If you have brought the hoisting line with you cleat it at the bow cleat. Now attach the forestay with what ever pin system you use, attach the ringy thingy as needed. Adjust the forestay tension with whatever tools you normally use. I have a 2nd small adjustable already closed up to fit the swaged top part above turnbuckle. I use the handle of the other one through the turnbuckle body to tension it. I then hank on the jib, after I disconnect the hoisting line from the jib halyard shackle. Going aft I lead the jib sheets to the winches. and coil up the hoisting line. Cleat on an after dockline. Pull out the fenders and fasten them. Hope I know which side to I will be launching. Lift off the stern mast crutch. Now time to take the rudder out of the cabin and set it down over the stern. Will finish it from the ground. Then the boom out of the cabin and slide onto the mast, and put on the mainsail. I put in the battens last then sail ties around the boom to hold the sail up. I don't have a topping lift (yet) so have a clip on pigtail from the backstay to the aft end of the boom to keep it supported till we raised the main on the water. I run the gas line out of the after locker, connect it to the tank. Open the tank cap vent while I am in there. Stow my tool bag back in the large port locker. Time to step down to the ground now. I have the old rudder design, so have to put a clevis pin into the lower end of the rudder pivot rod. Then lift and cleat off the rudder. Get the O/B from the truck, and put it on the stern bracket and hook up the gas line and give the bulb a few squeezes. Hmmmm, I have probably forgotten something, but I am pretty close to backing to the ramp. Should be about 35 to 40 minutes. Yesterday it was much slower. High heat, high humidity, bad air quality slowed me down. Sure was nice to throw out a couple of fenders on a line and , heave too, and drift down Lake Ontario, taking turns to jump in and cool off. Regards, Bill Wickett M17 #622 Step On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 10:28 PM, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
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