buy some Petit Skip Sand . . . It's way easier than sanding. Thanks -- I'd never heard of this.? Its own specs say it's a good tie-in between 2-part epoxy barriers (Interprotect) and antifouling. I'm happy to look at anything that will relieve me from the job of sanding this hull once again -- and anyway, there's no profit in sanding off even a mil of barrier coat.? The molded lapstrake design that makes this boat look so beautiful is a real pain to repeatedly sand and paint.? I'm hoping to get that last coat of antifouling on before my gumption runs out. -----Original Message----- From: Wcpritchett@aol.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 12:13 pm Subject: Re: M_Boats: Experience with Interprotect 2000E ?? In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:37:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, paint4real@aol.com writes: Perhaps some of you have used Interprotect 2000E barrier coat and can answer a couple of questions.? The literature itself seems self-contradictory, and also doesn't jibe with what I'm experiencing. As part of an extensive gelcoat blister repair, I'm using Interprotect 2000E (over Epiglass), on top of which I'd like to finish up with Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT antifouling. A lot is made of overcoating the Interprotect with antifouling when it is slightly tacky (using the "thumbprint" test), but I'm finding that each coat is already touch dry by the end of the roughly 1/2 hour it takes to apply a coat to my M15.? Curiously, the next coat of Interprotect can go on in 3-5 hours (depending on ambient temperature), or as much as 2 weeks later, without sanding. Interlux's own FAQ list tells of the dire consequences of applying antifouling paint after the "tacky" stage of the underlying Interprotect coat.? (The consequences are, the antifouling won't stick for long.)? And yet even if I immediately began applying the antifouling coat after applying the final coat of Interprotect, it wouldn't be a wet-into-wet (or wet-into-tacky) situation.? It would be "too late," to use Interlux's words.? The Interprotect simply dries too quickly.? (I'm working in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees -- undeniably, the drying time is greatly shortened as the day heats up.) Yet Interlux's own charts specify that the minimum overcoating time -- putting Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT over Interprotect -- is 5 hours at 73 degrees and 3 hours at 95 degrees.??So immediately following up with the first?ACT coat would flout these minimums -- and yet?either of these is hours past the "thumbprint" stage. Finally, let's assume that it IS "too late" to overcoat wet-into-tacky.? The only references to "what next?" that I can find are advisories that you have to remove everything and start over.? Is it not possible to let the Interprotect cure, then sand it with 80-grit (judiciously -- obviously you don't want to thin down the Interprotect barrier coat), and apply an antifouling bottom?coat? Any insights or advices would be greatly appreciated. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats You probably have super low humidity and it's causing the interprotect to cure faster. Anyway, if past the tacky stage it can be sanded lightly. 80 grit can be used but it's overkill. 100 or 120 is plenty. If you don't want to sand, buy some Petit Skip Sand. It's a solvent that's wiped or rolled on and it makes the surface tacky again.. Then you paint over it. I used it on a 42' sailboat epoxy barrier and it worked fine. I did the barrier coat on the entire hull from keel to deck. It stayed tacky overnight here in Florida's 90 F temp and 95% humidity so follow up painting was no rush. There were no bottom problems 5 yrs later when I sold the boat. It's way easier than sanding. Bill P. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats