Tom, For me trailer depth is in relation to the bunks. When launching I have the extension out and just back in until I see the boat start to float. This has required the entire trailer, hitch and my camper bumper to be submerged at times, which I hate to do in salt water, but that is the price to pay to go sailing. For getting to boat back on the trailer I find that if I have the bunks underwater with just the tip out of the water at the front that is usually just right. I just went out and measured from the ground (at the wheel) to the bunk and it is around 40" to get just above the bunk, so I would say between 40 and 48" is in the range. Depends on how steep the ramp is as well. With a steep ramp you could have the forward part of the boat resting on the bunks but could push it off into the water. Hope things are going well at June Lake! Jim M-17 #603 Grace -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jenkins Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 5:48 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mysteries Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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