Jerry, I probably did not describe this very accurately. But what it says in my book, Colgate's basic sailing theory, is that adjusting the backstay properly would free the Leech of the sail which they show as hooking to weather. Essentially the picture is a nice foil shape on the sail until right in front of the battens where it hooks to the weather side destroying the shape. There is a sharp discontinuity or angle in the sail shape right in front of the battern area or a line as you say. This is exactly what I was seeing with my new main. The back one fifth of the sail is at an angle to the rest of the sail. There is a line or fold in the sail right in front of the battens so the battens/Leech form what looks like an angle of 30 or 45 degrees to the rest of the sail. The sail manufacturer suggested working with the down haul to try and correct this which I have not tried yet. I was going to get the rake set and see if that fixed things. According to the picture in the book shortening the distance between the top of the mast and the end of the boom (by adjusting the backstay) will help free the leech or correct this. Now that I look at it though, I am not sure that the mast rake will effect this much since the backstay adjustment they show is bending the mast and I was working on getting the proper rake which is only the angle of the mast not bending it right? What it looked like is that previously the stays had the mast vertical with the halyard/plumb bob falling right next to the mast. The new stay lengths have the halyard about 12" back from the mast base which was what was advised for proper mast rake on the list here. I am a bit perplexed since I am not very knowledgeable on sails and sail tuning nor tuning the rig. I certainly appreciate any suggestions that would help clear this up. Thanks, Robbin jerry wrote:
Hi Robbin- I don't understand your comment about the main hooking to weather in a line at the fron of the battens. Could you elaborate on thaat? Usually a haard line along the front of the battens comes from the battens being too stiff, or a poorly cut/worn out main, and usually it's the ends of the battens, at the leach, that hook to weather.
I foot of rake on the mast doesn't seems too excessive to me, but the definative thing is that the weather helm should be just right.
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 6:31 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Level Reference
Thanks Jerry, made the trip to the marina yesterday and with the longer forestay you produced the mast was raked about 12" back! Much different position than previously where is was straight up if not a bit raked forward. To get the cockpit benches level I had to remove the 7.5hp outboard (glad that thing stays in place all year) and stood forward in the cockpit. The backstay is being shortened at Annapolis rigging so the rig should be in a much better state for the next sail. I have a new main but it was hooking to windward fairly severely along a line at the front of the battens. My sailing book said this would happen if the mast if too far forward so I am hoping this solves the issue with the main. Anyone have any experience with this they could
offer?
Thanks Robbin
jerry wrote:
Robbin- the boat will float bow down with nobody in the cockpit. Theoretically the seats should be level with a couple of people fwd in
the
cockpit.
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 4:34 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Level Reference
Tim, I also have new standing rigging which is not right and have to have a new backstay made (old rigging was lost when the new stuff was made),
so
I need to measure with the mast raked correctly. I am going to use the halyard with the boat floating and me not on it to get the correct mast position. I cannot think of another way to do it. I will try and see if the benches or cockpit floor register level with the boat floating. Then if they are they could be used as a reference on the trailer.
Robbin
Tim Diebert wrote:
Right....sorry......I actually was wondering if the cockpit sole...the
berth
decks ....the cockpit benches....or whatever is a level reference. That way I can easily level the boat fore and aft on the trailer and
try
and
have a reference starting point for mast rake. Rather than using a
painted
on water line that has been tweaked by PO's. I have new standing rig on the boat and am playing with rake. I reckon
I
have it too far right now but would like to try the recommended point.
If
the boat is not level....using the halyard method isn't going to work. Unless I am missing something.....then that would make an even dozen
for
today. Tim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Tom
Jenkins Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 8:38 AM To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: Re: M_Boats: Level Reference
Tim, I don't know what has been said by others, but you might borrow one of
those
inexpensive infrared thermometers and find where the temp changes on
the
hull. I do it to find the level of heating oil in my tank, but have
not
tried it myself on less conductive fiberglass.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Tim
Diebert Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 5:29 AM To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: M_Boats: Level Reference
I know it was asked but did not see a reply. Is there an area of the 17 hull that is a known level reference
relative
to
water line?
I don't always read all the emails......so if anyone got this one some
help
would be grand.
Tim and PUFF
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