Looks good,Jazz. I see you still have the stock sheaves at the mast head. They are wire/rope compatible. So you can run either for halyards. On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Tidy! Check it.... https://www.dropbox.com/s/s1xr6uoyydgam3s/20160210_135756.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlm5bwxots5ekrt/20160210_135728.jpg?dl=0
Hoping to get it all wired inside tomorrow.
-= Jazz
On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 1:09 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
As far as I know, it seals at whatever tightness the part gets tightened to. There would just be more of it left filling the gaps, less squeezed out, when bedding something less tight.
So far I've just used it for re-bedding some cabin top cam cleats, which need to be tightened "enough but not too much," and it worked fine.
cheers, John S.
On 02/09/2016 10:02 PM, Larry Yake wrote:
Good article. Sounds like I just didn't use the correct method of tightening it slowly over several days. One area where I would still avoid using it though, is where you can't really cinch the bolts down tight for fear of crushing the surface. He does recommend large backing plates to overcome that, but in some situations that's not possible or desirable.
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 9:36 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
It will squeeze out, yes - the link I posted, he explains that it will
ooze as you finish the tightening. It does stop once the piece is as snug as can get and all that's there to squeeze out squeezes out (the rest is still there doing the sealing). For me, a way better "mess" to clean up than 4200 or 5200 or anything similar. It's so much easier to work with, no need to mask anything, way cheaper, etc. - having seen people wrestle with 4200/5200 on club boats I thought "there must be a better way" and a few years later heard about the butyl. As the link describes, it was used by most quality builders into the 70's but was dropped as economics got tighter due to being more labor intensive, even if a better long-term method.
cheers, John S.
On 02/09/2016 09:27 PM, Larry Yake wrote:
One problem that you may run into with butyl tape (I did), is that since
it doesn't harden, it continues to "bleed" out from around your fitting. I redid all the deck fittings on a boat a couple years ago with it, using top quality butyl by the way, and ended up having to trim the edges around the fittings several times to keep it looking clean and tidy. I eventually sold that boat, so I don't know if the problem still continues. If you don't care about the "bleed", it's great stuff.
Larry Y
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 9:17 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Ahhh I seeeee! And your shiny white sails...that's on the list
too...oieeee
Jazz On Feb 9, 2016 8:55 PM, "John Schinnerer" <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
This is best shot I can find at the moment of my hatch - side view, slid
> forward - you can see the two stiffeners splitting hatch into thirds. > Nothing bracing the rear edge. > > You can do windows with butyl I've read, depending on if there is a > frame > around them and how the frame beds. Somewhere I found another site > with > a > how-to of someone re-bedding their portlights with butyl - those were > flanged ports, different than the inside/outside aluminum frames on my > > M17
windows. Haven't looked at those yet. > > cheers, > John S. > > On 02/09/2016 08:42 PM, Jazzy wrote: > > I've seen the butyl but was thinking it was for Windows and > >> >> such...grrrrr. >
When it leaks I'll butyl! And I'll have a looksie at the hatch, hadn't > >> even noticed! >> >> Jazz >> On Feb 9, 2016 8:38 PM, "John Schinnerer" <john@eco-living.net> >> wrote: >> >> Congratulations, and thanks for all the pics...I learn something from >> >> almost every one I see of a sister ship. For example: >>> >>> Your hatch has only one wood stiffener, at very rear. Mine has two, >>> splitting the hatch into thirds (front/middle/rear); and the rear >>> edge >>> >>> of >> > the hatch is cracked in the center, undoubtedly from being stood on a > >> time >>> too many with no reinforcing. So I'll move one of mine to the rear, >>> or >>> add >>> one... >>> >>> Your mainsheet is what I was thinking when you described it - >>> >>> essentially >> > same as a Potter 19 or an Ensenada 20 (and probably lotsa others but > >> those >>> are two I've sailed with same basic mainsheet rigging). Definitely >>> out >>> >>> of >> > the way, but I'm not crazy about having the sheet always lead from one > >> side. It's an awkward angle to mind the sheet when sitting on the >>> same >>> side, for me anyhow. >>> >>> Wow, fancy through-deck connector! >>> A tip for anything else you need to bed, or re-bed - ditch the nasty >>> >>> (and >> > pricey) sticky white goo, use good quality butyl tape (not 'tape' like > >> scotch or masking; comes on a roll but is a flexible bedding >>> compound, >>> used >>> on boats, RVs, etc.). For example this Dicor brand stuff: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FCB4JS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_...
> Seals "forever" and never hardens and also comes off easy. >>> Here is one good site with photos and details of how & why, this
is
>>> >>> page >> > one of three, page two gets into more details - this guy also sells the > >> tape he uses, see page three (I did some research and Dicor came up >>> as >>> >>> a >> > quality product so I went with that): > >> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=1 >>> >>> cheers, >>> John S. >>> >>> On 02/09/2016 07:09 PM, Jazzy wrote: >>> >>> Ok, so all drilled and the through deck is in. Its loosely screwed >>> >>> with >> > sealant drying for tightening tomorrow. Steaming/decklight is > >> installed. >>>> Anchor light is installed. Tomorrow it gets wired into the switch >>>> panel. >>>> Gonna need a bigger panel I think, but for now I'll use a couple of >>>> switches I have laying around. So here's some pics. I'll try to >>>> get >>>> steaming light pic tomorrow. It got dark! >>>> >>>> Here's the through hull... >>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/qn29hc195uyy5x4/20160209_182415.jpg?dl=0 >>>> >>>> Here's how my mainsheet is rigged, prob not great for racing but >>>> >>>> totally >>> >> out of the way for cruising... > >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rdwb1tvf0jdo7ry/20160209_172631.jpg?dl=0 >>>> >>>> And here's how it all exited from the mast...seems like I could >>>> have >>>> done >>>> this better, but I'm a noob and it was the best I could think of... >>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohw6nliz0wnat89/20160209_152745.jpg?dl=0 >>>> >>>> And to keep things from being to dull, here's the one and only time >>>> >>>> I've >>> >> been out on it! LOL > >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/n3n46bxvd2umdio/20160118_120353.jpg?dl=0 >>>> >>>> >>>> Jazz >>>> >>>> PS. If you guys are looking for a temp way to share pics until you >>>> >>>> all >>> >> decide on something, DropBox works great. You can put dropbox on your > >> phone and your computer and your wifes phone and your wifes computer, >>>> and >>>> it always stays up to date. If you change something in it on your >>>> >>>> phone >>> >> lets say, it changes everywhere. You just have to "share" your pic > >> >>>> with >>> >> DropBox, then open it in DropBox and right click for the "share > >> >>>> dropbox >>> >> link". The link will automatically go to your clipboard, then you > >> just >>>> paste in your email. So long as you keep your drop box, your link >>>> >>>> will >>> >> work in here. NOT AFFILIATED, but a cool program! I can look at El > >> Nino >>>> pics from any computer or phone that has dropbox :) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:11 PM, Thomas Buzzi < >>>> thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com >>>> >>>>> >>>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi Larry, >>>> >>>> Thanks for the suggestion of the foam peanuts since I have already >>>> >>>>> >>>>> run >>>> >>> the > >> mast wires and can't remember if I used the snap tie trick or not. >>>>> Tom B >>>>> >>>>> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by >>>>> >>>>> Avast. >>>> >>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> > >> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>>>> >>>>> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com
>>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Another option to quiet the wire slapping inside the mast is to >>>>> fill >>>>> >>>>> it >>>> >>>
> with styrofoam packing peanuts. A piece of styrofoam swim noodle >>>>> >>>>>> makes a >>>>>> nice "cork" in the ends to keep them from coming out. You also >>>>>> get >>>>>> >>>>>> the >>>>> >>>> benefit of some flotation. I did this several years ago and it has > >> worked >>>>>> very well with no issues at all. >>>>>> >>>>>> Larry Y >>>>>> M17 CornDog >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 1:28 PM, John Schinnerer < >>>>>> >>>>>> john@eco-living.net> >>>>> >>>> wrote: > >> >>>>>> Speaking of wires in mast - that you don't want to hear slapping >>>>>> all >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> night >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> from down in the berth, or just slapping (chafing ;-) in general >>>>>> - >>>>>> >>>>>> one >>>>> >>>> trick is to put three or four zip-ties every few feet on the wire > >> >>>>>>> as >>>>>> >>>>>
> you >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> feed it through, angled in different directions to make a >>>>> triangle >>>>> or >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> rectangle of zip-tie ends sticking out and pressing against the >>>>>> >>>>>>> inside >>>>>>> >>>>>>> of >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> the mast and keeping the wire from slapping. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> I would use the black more UV- and heat-tolerant ones - even >>>>>> though >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> inside >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> the mast, they will probably last longer than the plain white >>>>>> ones. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> cheers, >>>>>>> John S. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On 02/09/2016 07:11 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Jazz, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I drilled a 5/8 inch hole six inches up from the bottom of my >>>>>>> mast >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> on >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> front face to exit the wires. I then inserted a 1/2 inch rubber >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> grommet >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> (available at hardware stores) in the hole before feeding the >>>>>> wires >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> through >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> it.. I drilled the hole on the forward side of the mast as >>>>>>>> opposed >>>>>>>> to >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> side thinking about some future accident where I dropped the >>>>>> mast >>>>>> >>>>>> into >>>>> >>>>
> >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> tabernacle and possibly slice through those protruding wires. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> Two things I learned about boats, you always design around chafe >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> since >>>>>>>> nothing is still on a boat and things rub all the time and the >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> other >>>>>>> >>>>>>
> is >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> never leave a corner anywhere that is not radiused. Those sharp >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> corners >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> in >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> a fall can be deadly. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> Have fun. >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Tom B >>>>>>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> This email has been sent >>>>>>>> from >>>>>>>> a >>>>>>>> virus-free computer protected by Avast. >>>>>>>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> >>>>>>>> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:41 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>
> So I'm running mast wires. ..there's an exit hole that's about >>>>>>>> 1/4 >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> inch >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> down near the bottom of the mast. It would be helpful if it was >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> bigger >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> but >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> I don't want a portable folding mast. Can I enlarge it safely? >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> And >>>>>> >>>>>
> how >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> much? >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Jazz >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -------------------------------------------- >>>>>>> - Eco-Living - >>>>>>> Whole Systems Design Services >>>>>>> People - Place - Learning - Integration >>>>>>> john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >>>>>>> http://eco-living.net >>>>>>> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >>>> >>> -------------------------------------------- >>> - Eco-Living - >>> Whole Systems Design Services >>> People - Place - Learning - Integration >>> john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >>> http://eco-living.net >>> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > > -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com