Wow! You got a steal of a deal. You will want to make very certain to stop any water permeability. Auto body filler is made with polyester resin, which is an inferior product when compared to the epoxy's.The reason is that epoxy has a higher resistance to water intrusion and has a much higher component of adhesion. Going over fiberglass products with either polyester or epoxy should be done only after dewaxing. There are various products available to do this, and the issue is that the polyester resin can have wax with in it, as well as on it. It is often thought that acetone will accomplish this, however I have read that it does not. I have filled a lot of holes on boats with a thickened epoxy mixture using fiberglass strand as well in the mix. Anyway, at this point you have so little money in the boat, I would suggest covering what is done with a good coating of epoxy with fiberglass cloth that is saturated with epoxy. There are lots of good tutorials on working with epoxy. If you are working on a vertical surface you will need to thicken the epoxy to keep it from running out of the cloth and repair area. Gentle heat gets it to harden faster. The fumes are poisonous, and skin becomes easily sensitized to it. As this is in the area that can be get some scrapes, a high density filler would be best. Each hardened layer of epoxy must have the amine blush removed with hot water and a scotch pad scrubbing. Then, paint with a good polyurethane paint. Gelcoat would be inferior and more difficult to work with. Burt Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 5, 2019, at 8:50 PM, edwin jenkins <ejenkins1953@gmail.com> wrote:
Ok gentlemen , I purchased a 1975 Montgomery 17at an auction with trailer and a 3.9 Volvo outboard for $100.00 a couple of years ago and I am restoring it now it hasn't been in water for approximately 15 years first thing I did was took it to a carwash and spent$20.00 to clean it up. Came out looking pretty good. I'm in the process of redoing the keel . It had a nasty split in it so I cut out a section and put a coat of liquid aluminum on the led pellets after grinding that smooth I put a coat of body filler with fiberglass strands in it . Now I'm debating whether I should also put a layer of fiberglass matting on it or should I just put a coat of epoxy on it ? .
On Sun, Jun 2, 2019, 11:44 PM Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I’ve found Rustoleum “Canvas White” is a pretty good match. This is what I used when I rebuilt the transom on Monita.
Henry Monita 1979 M17 #310
On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 12:30 PM John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
What does anyone here use for "paint" on top of resin, when you've done some kind of small resin/filler repair topsides, and need to cover it?
Mainly to protect the resin from UV, and, cover whatever color the resin/filler spots are with something at least vaguely matching your topside gelcoat or paint?
For example holes filled when moving cleats, tracks, etc. or replacing them with ones that have different mounting hole locations.
Jerry recently wrote: "I've done a bazillian repair jobs over the years... For nearly everything, polyurethane auto paint is far better than gel coat. It's WAY more UV resistant and therefore stays shinier longer and doesn't fade as much as re-sprayed gel and is much easier to apply."
Anyone tried this for small stuff like I'm talking about? A can of polyurethane spray paint from local auto parts store?
There are usually so many different shades available, I could probably get close to matching my faded-white-ish aged gelcoat.
thanks, John
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
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