I think there have been several solutions to this posted in the past two weeks...innovative homemade versions anyway. Copper pipes...stainless tubing. All doing a good job of emulating the original flush mount drain. I think that one problem with not running it out through the bottom is the amount of fall between the bottom of the cockpit drain and the bottom of the transom. Without exiting the bottom, you may not get it to drain properly. But if it will work, with a check valve in the line to prevent backwash, that would be the easy way. I think the drain hose is also an integral part of the original drains, and it makes a convoluted bend that raises the bottom of the hose to the level of the cockpit floor. The hose still drains, but the bend creates a higher point than the cockpit half of the drain, and this helps prevent backwash, but also works like a regular drain trap...with a small pocket of water always in the line. I've been wondering why a regular 1" to 1 1/2" bronze mushroom head wouldn't work for the bottom drain...unless drag were an issue, and if that is the case...why not a flush mount through hull? They make them in bronze too. And you can get them with 45° elbows. Which brings up another point...how would you cut the exact bevel you would need to mount a flush mount through hull? As for adding another drain to the older boats, it occurs to me that the second drain does not have to be as low as the first. A pooping that would fill the cockpit is going to first drain to the level of the cutout for the motor mount....but that still leaves water to a level just above the cockpit seats. But with that much water onboard, you can be certain the boat will be squatting aft...with more water pouring out the opening...but she would still be squatting aft, so water won't be level in the cockpit..but tilted aft too. So a second drain about halfway up the riser of the cockpit's foot well and out the transom well above the waterline is going to remove the dangerous amount of water....with the balance of it still going out the floor drain. But with the second drain mounted higher, you would seldom if ever get any backwash coming in. Even so, they do make the drains with one way check valves just for this purpose. But either way, I would not want to be in a boat with the original cockpit drain leaking. If the metal or hose gives out you are pretty much assured of sinking. Howard M17, #278 On 9/29/02 8:46 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
I too am intrested in this. I have cut a small hole in my transom to get at the fitting that the cockpit drain hose attaches to. The bottom metal fitting is corroded and leaking. It makes more sense to me to remove it, fiberglass the hole it was in, (on bottom of boat '76 M17) and run the new fitting out the transom, making sure it's below the cockpit floor level. Anyone out there have a recommendation as to what the new fitting should be? Wayne Yeargain ----- Original Message ----- From: "dik lang" <diklang32@hotmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 10:38 AM Subject: M_Boats: cockpit drains
I have read with interest the past bits about through hulls and how to maintain or repair. Does anyone have any specifics on how to retro fit an older m-17 to the new model that drains directly throught the transom?
This
seems like the best answer, and after all, I do need a winter project. I have lots of experience with both epoxy and poly resins. Dik Lang m-17 #375
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