PS on this - I don't know that depth of penetration matters that much. The point of the epoxy would be to seal the wood surface, so that nothing else (e.g. moisture) penetrates. My sea kayak (Coho model from Pygmy Boats in Pt. Townsend, WA) is 4mm Okume. The underside of the deck and a few other parts (cockpit rim) are not glassed because it's not needed for strength, would just add weight. But all wood surfaces are epoxy sealed so that even when they get wet, none of the wet gets into the wood. They're sealed with the same epoxy used for everything else on the boat, not any kind of special penetrating epoxy. cheers, John S. On 01/02/2016 10:35 AM, Randy Graves wrote:
John,
Just finishing up replacement hatch boards (3 pieces) for my '88 M17. This is my 3rd set of boards. This set and the previous set were made of 12 mm Okoume marine plywood that I'm able to buy 1/2 sheet locally ($60). The previous set lasted 6 years before the plys started delaminating. With this set I epoxy sealed the boards using TotalBoat Penetrating epoxy. Lesson learned - it is better to thin the epoxy and let it soak in deeply. Even being penetrating epoxy it would have been better to thin it. I dado cut the butting edges of the boards to help shed water. The challenge I am now having, as this is the dead of Winter here in N. Idaho, is keeping a dust free environment for applying the final finish.
I also considered Starboard. I could not buy a 1/2 sheet locally and found it was significantly heavier than the marine plywood. It would have been a very practical choice but I'm glad I stuck with the wood.
Randy Graves
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 2:16 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
John, I have considered that too. They make penetrating epoxies now that would probably go all the way down to the first layer glue layer. When I redid the vertical slots for my companionway boards I made them so they would accept 3/4 inch stock which also left me with a very heavy 3/4 inch piece of birch faced plywood. So now I think I will go with some Philippine Mahogany since it is somewhat porous so will be light for its bulk. I may also give it a shot of penetrating epoxy too followed with the UV protection. My vertical slots are made of teak painted gloss varnish. Three coats of the Minwax product from Lowes has held up well in the direct sun this past summer. Have fun.
Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 3:14 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks all for the various responses to my starboard question. Good ideas on the wood options also.
I am thinking that epoxy sealing something like birch plywood would help with stability and longevity (assuming UV-resistant varnish over the epoxy of course). Anyone have any experience with that?
cheers, John S.
On 12/30/2015 09:54 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com
wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in
a
number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
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-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com