My current project to remove rusty steel punchings and then to replace with lead shot NOTE: I can testify as to the weight of the steel I removed from the keel in my current project weighs a total of 224 pounds, give or take 20 or so pounds. That plus the 175 pound centerboard totals 400 to 425 pounds of ballast total on my 1975 #69 (not Coyote- may name her “Ole yeller” since mine is got the same number as Coyote) M17. When the centerboard would drop, my boat sailed quite exceptionally, well balanced, pointed very well….Jerry has posted that when he switched from steel to lead he increased the total ballast weight to 600 pounds from 500 or 550 pounds. Anyone doing this project, I recommend weighing how much you remove and replace with same amount of lead unless wanting to change characteristics. My prior project: to cure problem of rusting steel slugs on account of the CB would not drop (from the outset of my ownership of hull 69, I had to jump up and down inside the cabin to get the CB to drop; additionally I drilled an exploratory hole at the fore bottom of the keel from which water did pour out of): Some years ago, I drilled ¼” holes throughout the outer walls of the keel. I then injected ?epoxy into one hole at a time, so that the epoxy would fill up air pockets inside the keel to prevent water from rusting the steel slugs. I injected the epoxy into a hole until epoxy oozed out an adjacent hole, then plugged the hole injected into with a wooden dowel. I injected from the bottom of the keel upwards. Near the top of the keel I found void, as in no steel slugs, and also a green Styrofoam for floatation purposes apparently. I also at this time removed the CB and had it sandblasted, I then refaired it and painted it with bottom paint, or whatrever was appropriate. The CB did drop as intended after this for several times. But then it quit dropping again. My current project to remove rusty steel slugs (phase 1) or steel punchings (224 pounds of centers of washers approx. 1/8th “ diameter) and then to replace with lead shot (available in 25 lb bags at cabella’s $43.50 per bag and elsewhere: I started with boat on trailer, used a cutout tool to cut out sections of the outer keel wall…. Found the steel slugs to be very rusty and also found the epoxy that I injected previously to have formed an extremely difficult mass to remove. I began with a hammer and chisel to remove rusty steel. This resulted in trauma to elbow resulted in severe case of tennis elbow with some of the rusty steel removed. I found a boatyard whereby I paid for 3 weeks for them to put my boat on stands (would have preferred them to raise it higher than they did for my comfort). I then bought a cheap air hammer, progressed up to a higher quality air hammer and finally got an Ingersoll Rand 122 MAX for $169, along with finding a general laborer to use the air hammer. This air hammer was very capable of removing the steel/epoxy supertough mess. A word of warning: There is a mass of the steel slugs/epoxy at the front of the keel , fore of the centerboard that goes up to the bottom of the hull, this is located directly underneath the compression post – I suggest leave this section as is – I believe it is the foundation for the compression post. Anyways, got the steel removed and lo and behold: the centerboard drops easily!!! :) Phase 2: To re-fiberglass the cutout areas of the keel: I did cutout 4 sections of the outer keel wall on the port side, and 3 sections on the starboard side in order to access the steel punchings. The fiberglass man is to do the repair AND leave the gap between the outer wall and centerboard trunk wall to allow for me to be able to (phase 3)pour the lead shot from above (I will drill holes through the sole above the areas of keel to pour the lead shot). Additionally, he did notice there is lamination damage at the bottom of the centerboard slot of the keel that needs repair. Phase 3: I drilled a 3” diameter hole in cabin just aft of the compression post where I will pour lead into the front of the keel. Since I did remove the steel punching mass that was underneath the compression post, I need to be able to pour the lead there and then be able to pour epoxy to make that area hard and compress it so that it will support the compression post above. I will put in an inspection port at that hole to monitor inside the keel for compression post support, water, etc. I will also drill small holes at three locations on each side of the centerboard to allow me to pour the lead shot down between the centerboard and outer wall of the keel, as well as one above the rear of the keel Phase 4: I did remove some of that green Styrofoam flotation, and so may replace it and place the new Styrofoam inside plywood boxes and fiberglass them to the centerline of the boat at the hull. If this project is a success (really my only concern at this point is how well he can repair the cutouts in the keel walls), it might be worthy of being posted in the projects section of the site. Pictures: 224 lbs of rusty steel 4 sections of keel cutout, centerboard dropped Steel prior to hammering out Keel after steel removed Jim Hymes
