1. Do NOT pull the hull/deck apart. Biaxial tape is almost imperative to be flexible enough and strong enough to wrap the transom/deck shapes. Build the repair with fiberglass NOT filler! Use peel ply as cover over final layer of cloth at the end of every layup, this removes excess resin and amine blush. Remove peel ply when cured and prior to additional layups. I buy 4” Dacron ‘tape’ from Aircraft Spruce for my peel ply and use an aluminum wheel roller to roll down ALL layers of FG and peel ply to remove bubbles and thoroughly wet out layers. 2. Remove as much ‘sealant’ as possible using knives/razor blades prior to grinding. Using an abrasive flapper wheel on right angle grinder, carefully bevel approx. 2” on each side of joint (4” tape) for the area to be bonded. Wash with acetone, lightly coat exposed area with neat (unthickened) epoxy, apply wet tape to seam, apply second layer of DRY tape to same area, being sure to thoroughly wet out, I use Dacron cloth for ‘peel ply’ , roll all down gingerly but thoroughly (Dacron will look ‘wet out’) let cure 72 hours. Remove peel ply. Sand re-apply cloth to any uncovered areas. Idea is glass for repair NOT filler! Build up glass above adjacent area, sand to flush, your ‘feathered ‘ area should be as close as possible to solid FG, minimal filler. 3. Sand area flush with finished adjacent area(s). 4. Fill repaired area to flush using med or low density filler ( glass beads is my favorite for this) there should be minimal filler as the ideal is to have the repair comprised primarily of glass and MINIMUM filler. 5. Prime with epoxy hi build primer (repeatedly) and sand to prep for top coat - gel coat or paint. Best advice - doc.# 002-550 ‘Fiberglass repair’available as pdf -free on West System website. ANY discrepancy between above instructions and West System instructions- ignore my blather. Follow the guys who know how to do it! Epoxy MUST be protected from UV , so primer and paint can make or break longevity of the repair- do not leave uncoated after final cure- proper prep and follow manufacturers instructions. Good luck, have fun, wear good gloves- do not breath epoxy dust, definitely AVOID sanding prior to full 72 hour cure, then wear quality particulate respiration protection. Good luck, have fun! GO On Mon, Jul 4, 2022 at 8:42 PM E Blohm via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Gary,
I ordered the thin Epoxy (3Qts from Raka), medium hardener, wood filler and 20-4” FG tapes.
I am thinking a 4.5” angle grinder or a drill attachment disk would be used to remove the hull/deck sealant?
I just want to make sure I understand your fix method before I start this later in week.
1. Open hull/deck up at transom. I guess pulling a inch or two apart wouldn’t crack the outer surfaces.
2. Remove sealant with sander-disk and wipe down with solvent.
3. Sand back (bevel) 2” from top of transom towards keel.
4. Fill the sanded back bevel area with thickened Epoxy and mate deck before Epoxy cures.
5. Rough up/fair top of transom-deck and new filled Epoxy and lay a couple layers of FG tape on.
6. Sand and fair.
7. Paint
Is that correct?
Erik
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 24, 2022, at 14:02, E Blohm <eblohm@rocketmail.com> wrote: