Rick, Agree with you regarding the really basic traveler on the M15 and I have been wondering if I could or should rig a simple block and cleat affair to the aft mainsheet block to hold the boom to weather when needed. (My boat, which is pretty much stock, has no blocks on the aft end of the toerail. Might it be those blocks are for spinnaker sheet and guy?) The first alterations to my boat were to remove most of the Styrofoam blocks which had been stuffed into the forward locker (I left the ones under the cockpit) and used that space to store some water bottles and a portable battery. I also added a Forespar adjustable tiller extension. This keeps my all-too-considerable weight forward in the cockpit and helps balance the boat fore and aft. So long as you keep the water outside the boat, there's no problem. (Thanks to Connie for his wise words on this subject.) An added bonus of the ball-end tiller extension is that is works pretty well as a tiller tamer by jamming the ball against the cockpit seats backs as long as I don't dance a jig on the boat. It works so well that I'm planning on putting in a "tiller lock box" which will hold the ball end securely in place. George M15 #385 On 5/28/04 7:02 AM, "Rick Langer" <farreach@optonline.net> wrote:
Connie,
The "learning curve" is right. There's more blocks, fairleads and cleats on my M15's deck then I know what to do with. I've worked out the jib and main halyards to the cockpit and the working jib sheets seem to work well through the fairleads on the cabin roof, but the 170% genoa sheets still have me a little puzzled. I led them through fairleads on deck at the rear of the windows. This worked somewhat, but when sheeted in all the way they pulled down hard on the leech leaving the foot rather baggy. I tried running the sheets through the permanently mounted blocks at the aft end of the toe rail. This worked very well, with nice sail shape, but the sheets were not long enough to go through tacks rigged this way and there didn't seem to be a way to cleat them off.
Another issue is the traveler. I rigged it through the eyes on each side of the stern and the mainsheet block on the boom. This worked well enough on all tacks except close hauled. I wanted a way to pull the boom more to windward and found that if I pulled the boom by hand to windward that I could point better. Is this the correct way to rig the traveler or are those permanent blocks at the aft end of the toe rail somehow used for pulling the boom sideways?
On second look at the flotation, I see the logs you mentioned under the Styrofoam which I suspect was added by the original owner. Was there ever concerns on this list that the M15s didn't have enough flotation?
A solar powered Nicro vent seems like a good solution in conjunction with louvered hatchboards, but I'd really prefer an opening hatch up forward. I wonder if anyone on the list has tried to install one?
Thanks for all your help,
Rick Langer
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 11:12:02 -0400 From: chbenneck@juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Re: Another Happiest Day To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20040523.111205.2152.1.chbenneck@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Congratulations Rick on your new and improved toy!
Now the fun begins, but first you have to go through the "learning curve" and become familiar with how to raise the mast and take it down; how all the rigging functions; - and most important of all - remember to have the centerboard UP and cleated when putting the boat back on the trailer................
Make yourself a sign: "C/B UP on Retrieve" until it is second nature.
Hatch boards: As I told you I rebuilt mine using teak plywood, and added a vent louver in the top board that I bought at WEST.
Fore deck vent: I have a Nicro Low Profile vent, but one of the Nicro flush vents (solar powered) may be a preferable solution because they supply needed ventilation, and keep the water out.
The problem I have is that if the boat is at the marina; it rains and the wind blows; without a Dorade box under the vent, water goes down the open hole and your mattress gets a damp spot.
Flotation foam: It's just loose Styrofoam logs lying under the cockpit sole, or stuffed in the forward compartment at the bow.
Remove the screwed down cover on yours, and gain access to the extra storage space. That's where I stow my large Fortress anchor, chain and rode; and where my motorcycle battery will reside.
You need weight forward in the vessel to keep from dragging the transom through the water.
The web comments are that it is nice to have the bow pulpit. I don't, but now that I am used to the motion of the boat as I move around on the fore deck, it doesn't bother me not having it - but, it sure is a nice place to tie off a jib halyard while raising the mast; or as a hand hold for someone on a dock who is lending a hand as you come in.............. easier to grab than the shrouds.
If your new M15 has the normal length tiller, sail with it first, and then you will understand why I built my tiller extension. You might want to use my idea just making it to a height at your knee that you find comfortable.
At present mine is about 98% correct. I'd like it a tad higher at the handhold end to optimize it - but now that I have it built and it works, do I really want to redo it again for a 2% improvement? I guess that depends on how many rainy days we have, since that sort of thing is a rainy day project.
Rick, do you have a deep sail locker and a shallow one as mine had before I modified it?
If you need any help of advice, just yell!
Connie
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