I took out my stock aluminum framed windows and replaced with acrylic. I did make inside wooden frames to match the window dimensions to have something to bolt through to the inside. Also I was able to attach curtain tracks to the wood inside. If you go this route, be SURE to over drill the bolt holes and use flat head bolts so the window can slip slightly as it expands due to heat and contracts due to cold. I have had mine on for a year now and no cracks in the plastic. On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 10:55 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
This is best shot I can find at the moment of my hatch - side view, slid forward - you can see the two stiffeners splitting hatch into thirds. Nothing bracing the rear edge.
You can do windows with butyl I've read, depending on if there is a frame around them and how the frame beds. Somewhere I found another site with a how-to of someone re-bedding their portlights with butyl - those were flanged ports, different than the inside/outside aluminum frames on my M17 windows. Haven't looked at those yet.
cheers, John S.
On 02/09/2016 08:42 PM, Jazzy wrote:
I've seen the butyl but was thinking it was for Windows and such...grrrrr. When it leaks I'll butyl! And I'll have a looksie at the hatch, hadn't even noticed!
Jazz On Feb 9, 2016 8:38 PM, "John Schinnerer" <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Congratulations, and thanks for all the pics...I learn something from
almost every one I see of a sister ship. For example:
Your hatch has only one wood stiffener, at very rear. Mine has two, splitting the hatch into thirds (front/middle/rear); and the rear edge of the hatch is cracked in the center, undoubtedly from being stood on a time too many with no reinforcing. So I'll move one of mine to the rear, or add one...
Your mainsheet is what I was thinking when you described it - essentially same as a Potter 19 or an Ensenada 20 (and probably lotsa others but those are two I've sailed with same basic mainsheet rigging). Definitely out of the way, but I'm not crazy about having the sheet always lead from one side. It's an awkward angle to mind the sheet when sitting on the same side, for me anyhow.
Wow, fancy through-deck connector! A tip for anything else you need to bed, or re-bed - ditch the nasty (and pricey) sticky white goo, use good quality butyl tape (not 'tape' like scotch or masking; comes on a roll but is a flexible bedding compound, used on boats, RVs, etc.). For example this Dicor brand stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FCB4JS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_...
Seals "forever" and never hardens and also comes off easy. Here is one good site with photos and details of how & why, this is page one of three, page two gets into more details - this guy also sells the tape he uses, see page three (I did some research and Dicor came up as a quality product so I went with that): http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=1
cheers, John S.
On 02/09/2016 07:09 PM, Jazzy wrote:
Ok, so all drilled and the through deck is in. Its loosely screwed with
sealant drying for tightening tomorrow. Steaming/decklight is installed. Anchor light is installed. Tomorrow it gets wired into the switch panel. Gonna need a bigger panel I think, but for now I'll use a couple of switches I have laying around. So here's some pics. I'll try to get steaming light pic tomorrow. It got dark!
Here's the through hull... https://www.dropbox.com/s/qn29hc195uyy5x4/20160209_182415.jpg?dl=0
Here's how my mainsheet is rigged, prob not great for racing but totally out of the way for cruising... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rdwb1tvf0jdo7ry/20160209_172631.jpg?dl=0
And here's how it all exited from the mast...seems like I could have done this better, but I'm a noob and it was the best I could think of... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohw6nliz0wnat89/20160209_152745.jpg?dl=0
And to keep things from being to dull, here's the one and only time I've been out on it! LOL https://www.dropbox.com/s/n3n46bxvd2umdio/20160118_120353.jpg?dl=0
Jazz
PS. If you guys are looking for a temp way to share pics until you all decide on something, DropBox works great. You can put dropbox on your phone and your computer and your wifes phone and your wifes computer, and it always stays up to date. If you change something in it on your phone lets say, it changes everywhere. You just have to "share" your pic with DropBox, then open it in DropBox and right click for the "share dropbox link". The link will automatically go to your clipboard, then you just paste in your email. So long as you keep your drop box, your link will work in here. NOT AFFILIATED, but a cool program! I can look at El Nino pics from any computer or phone that has dropbox :)
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:11 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the suggestion of the foam peanuts since I have already run the mast wires and can't remember if I used the snap tie trick or not. Tom B
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Another option to quiet the wire slapping inside the mast is to fill it
with styrofoam packing peanuts. A piece of styrofoam swim noodle makes a nice "cork" in the ends to keep them from coming out. You also get the benefit of some flotation. I did this several years ago and it has worked very well with no issues at all.
Larry Y M17 CornDog
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 1:28 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Speaking of wires in mast - that you don't want to hear slapping all
> > night
from down in the berth, or just slapping (chafing ;-) in general - one > trick is to put three or four zip-ties every few feet on the wire as > > you
feed it through, angled in different directions to make a triangle or
> rectangle of zip-tie ends sticking out and pressing against the > inside > > of
the mast and keeping the wire from slapping.
> I would use the black more UV- and heat-tolerant ones - even though > > inside
the mast, they will probably last longer than the plain white ones. > > cheers, > John S. > > > On 02/09/2016 07:11 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: > > Jazz, > >> I drilled a 5/8 inch hole six inches up from the bottom of my mast >> on >> >> the >
front face to exit the wires. I then inserted a 1/2 inch rubber > >> >> grommet >
(available at hardware stores) in the hole before feeding the wires
> through >> it.. I drilled the hole on the forward side of the mast as opposed >> to >> >> the >
side thinking about some future accident where I dropped the mast into > >> >> the >
tabernacle and possibly slice through those protruding wires. > >> Two things I learned about boats, you always design around chafe >> since >> nothing is still on a boat and things rub all the time and the other >> >> is >
never leave a corner anywhere that is not radiused. Those sharp
> >> corners >
in
a fall can be deadly. > >> Have fun. >> Tom B >> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> This email has been sent from a >> virus-free computer protected by Avast. >> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email> >> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >> >> On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:41 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> So I'm running mast wires. ..there's an exit hole that's about 1/4 >> >> inch >
down near the bottom of the mast. It would be helpful if it was
> >>> bigger >> >
but
> I don't want a portable folding mast. Can I enlarge it safely? And >>> >>> how >> > much? > >> >>> Jazz >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > > >
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com