Good information Bones, having done more bottom jobs than I like to admit you have it right on all accounts. The good thing about the stripper, IF you decide to do it yourself, is that you are not creating all that fine and toxic dust. The only sanding required is at the last stage where you have some residue and you may want to give the new coating a good mechanical surface to go on. With the stripper I lay out thin poly ground cloths every time so that when I scrape off the paint it is captured and disposed of where it will not find its way into the bay. Another alternative to consider is to have the bottom soda blasted. I had my center board soda blasted by Mike at Chesapeake Blasting for an extremely reasonable charge (he is based about 5 minutes from Breezy Point Marina). They also blast hulls and do so in a responsible way by tenting the below the water line where they are blasting so as to capture all the material. Just another option (I think a really good one) to consider. Robbin On 4/14/2011 10:25 PM, bownez@juno.com wrote:
Hello Rick, Robbin, and Listers, I did a bottom job on my M17 when I purchased her in 1997. She had the small pox type of blisters mainly along the waterline. I went the Interprotect/Micron CSC route, and it has held up well over the years.When I purchased my M23 in 2001, I had a local yard (Hoopers) apply a fresh layer of bottom paint. Brian stressed that if you simply going to do a light sand and recoat, you MUST follow with the same brand/type of bottom paint. Mine is Awlgrip/Allstar. Quite expensive.Forward to 2006, and I decided to try a recoat job myself. Well, I had no idea how fine bottom paint is once you start to sand it. Although covered head to toe, I found bottom paint inbetween my toes.The lapstrake is no joy to sand and repaint.Thus, the moral of the story is:Hooper's yard gets the job next time. I'll pay the money. Been there, done that. Bones
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