It looks at first blush like you could do that, but, after looking at it again, for the 6th time, it appears that the mast crutch is part of the assembly. If you removed the whole rudder assembly, the mast crutch would be hanging in thin air...with the mast on it. My husband claims it is easy, but I beg to differ. Going to drag him out there to look at it. On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 1:34 PM Jason Leckie <leckie.jas@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Gail,
If I am understanding what you are describing, I don’t think you need to take off the pivot bolt or the lock nuts on the hydraulic damper.
Can you not just lift the whole thing off the back of the boat in one piece? It should just separate at the hinges on the back of the boat.
On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 12:57 PM Gail Russell <gail@zeliga.com> wrote:
Looks like the motor is Yamaha Longshot model 2006 4 hp F4MLH. Rudder is Ruddercraft Uniform Fixed Kickapoo.
Looks like I have to take off the pivot bolt for the rudder plus take off two locking bolts that hold the hydraulic dampener (guess that is what it is) to get the rudder off.
Looks like the tiller has to be unbolted from the wood in order to get it out. Three
On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 12:12 PM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Gail:
as Thomas wrote the motor shouldn't be on the transom & that the motor needs to be secured and wrapped for leak containment in cabin.
the rudder is a question as if it is a RudderCraft type with the integrated mast support things will have to be different. (as I wrote before what rudder does the boat have?)
i disagree with Thomas on the orientation of the motor - each motor is different. read the manual and follow it EXACTLY. for example - the Hondas are THROTTLE LEVER UP! throttle lever down will result in motor damage as the oil will run into the cylinder head and other places. PLEASE see attached image showing manual page from Honda 5 manual!
what brand & model motor does the boat have?
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On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 11:37 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Definitely take the motor off the transom. Thoroughly drain all the gasoline out of it, wrap it in several moving blankets or old quilts, and lay it on the cabin sole inside locked up. Rest it on the throttle side when you lay it down with the propeller sliding under the cockpit on one side or the other of the cb trunk housing. Cover the windows of the cabin with tinfoil so no one can see inside. Outboard motor thieves have taken chain saws to boats to remove motors. The rudder should be stowed inside the cockpit, again properly wrapped so road vibrations will not rub the rudder against any fiberglass nor the finish on the rudder be removed. That will shorten your load and avoid damage to the rudder or the gudgeons or pintles on which the rudder rotates should the boat be shoved onto or off something. Of course, secure anything that can vibrate loose inside the cabin. A cradle for the boat hull or chocks for the boat trailer wheels are a must as well as chain binders. Is your hauler insured? Good luck.
On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 1:24 PM Gail Russell <gail@zeliga.com> wrote:
Not yet certain. New owner is scoping out options. One option is transport of boat and trailer on a flatbed, in which case overall length of the rig matters to the price. New owner is of the understanding that putting the motor on the cabin sole (yours truly to wrap it up in moving blankets and bubble wrap) is better rather than leaving it to hang on the transom.
If We also take the rudder off, we can cut maybe 2 feet off the overall length.
I had suggested looking for RV transport companies that would take it over the road. In that case, length might be less significant.
I am interested in any and all insights. The boat is already sold, but I am going to be doing the work to secure everything, so have a real interest in doing my best to make it arrive in good condition.
Not sure about shrink wrapping advisability.
The owner will make final decision, but I want to make sure I am not missing important info on my end.
We considered taking it to the Texas Hill Country ourselves using our truck and camper, but decided it was a long drive! We might do something like take it as far as LA or Riverside, but Texas is an 27 hour trip, and our days of marathon driving sessions are long gone.
I ha
On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 9:36 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Gail.
Are the boat and trailer going onto a flatbed trailer? Or are boat and trailer being pulled behind a truck? (aka, on trailers own wheels.)
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 8:52 AM Gail Russell <gail@zeliga.com> wrote:
> We are getting ready to hire a transport company to haul a Montgomery 17 > from the SF Bay area to Southern Texas. A few questions: > > Is it safe to move the mast forward so that it does not overhang the rear > of the boat so as to shorten the transport length to reduce dollar cost of > transporting the rig on a truck and trailer. > > I am assuming it can be secured further forward. Not sure if there are > any implications for the mast? >