Bill... The new model M_17s don't have a stop pin. Your centerboard down limit is the Knot in the pennant. The older boats had a cast iron board that needed a 'stop pin' aft. Fair winds Bob www.montgomeryboats.com (949) 489-8227
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 10:44:31 -0400 From: billwick@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Quiet list. What projects do you have planned for the winter months or prior to Havasu?
Dave,
I save whipping the ends of lines for something to do at anchor. Trouble is, I am always fussing here and there, and then it is dark. Hmmm. I do one here, one there.
I believe most M17's (I stand to be corrected) have a gap from the stern locker into the side locker space. I too want to close this up, as the cabin smells like gas from time to time. I think the foam cushions also absorb this odor.
Can you tell me about changing the stop pin for a bolt? Will you have the bolt head and nut exposed? It wasn't on my list yesterday, but changing the pennant is "on my list". I have it arranged to lift up the boat with a fork lift from the trailer to drop the board.
Bill
On Fri, Nov 5, 2010 at 8:45 PM, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
the list for SWEET PEA, M17 #375 -
#1 create closed bulkhead between the stern cockpit 'wet' locker and the inside of cabin. there is that big 2' x 3" gap that runs along the aft end of the locker at the transom. i've started this project. now waiting for warmer weather (for epoxy work) and complete the next two projects first.
#2 re-bed motor mount (rust showing behind bracket).
#3 install transom boarding ladder.
#4 re-bed bow pulpit (showing signs of rust behind one of the deck mounts).
#5 install bow bi-color light.
#6 repair shorting masthead light wiring (think the problem is the 'pig tail' at the bottom of the run so _hoping_ an easy fix).
#7 create and install shelf for iPod speaker/amp unit. shelf will be just below cabin top attached to compression post.
#8 hard-wire the speaker/amp unit to 12V system (i bought a unit that will run directly on 12V so just need to run some wire and make the connection).
#9 take main to sail loft and see if the sail can be 'taken in' and repaired as i can't afford a new main at this time.
#10 service outboard (engine and lower end oil).
#11 re-bed the forward hatch latch attachment (leaking).
#12 figure out why the bulkhead compass is leaking and fix.
#13 run 12V to bulkhead compass so the light works.
#14 design modifications to galley so the space is more accessible and useful - looking into installing a shelf inside the unit, adding a door, adding a drawer.
#15 replace one bent t-bolt (baby stay port side)
#16 replace one bent toggle (stay starboard side)
#17 remove rigging tape for all turnbuckles and give everything a few turns to make sure nothing seizes.
#18 replace winddex (broken).
#19 put proper whipping' on line, sheet and halyard ends.
#20 replace centerboard pendent (requires removal of stop pin. i'm going to 'convert' to a stainless bolt so i no longer have to grind and pound out and then re-bed the stop-pin.
#21 inspect centerboard for rust and 'touch up' as necessary.
already this fall -
repainted and refinished hatch-boards (some rot so i did an epoxy fix and then four coats of varnish).
eight coats of seafin (oil) on exterior teak
one coat of varnish on motor mount (the wood plate that the motor attaches too).
wash boat
wax hull and topsides
touch-up paint and rust prevention to trailer
replace trailer tongue jack
the above is 'just the start' i'm sure ....
dave scobie M17 #375 - SWEET PEA visit SWEET PEA's www-site: http://www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 11/5/10, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote
I know, some of you get to sail most of the year round. Lucky you.
We have a tiller pilot we want to install. Look for a whisker pole at the boat shows. Add some interior shelf/racks on the inside of the main cabin bulkhead for charts and stuff. Refinish the hatch boards and other teak I might take off. Order boat name graphics to put on in the spring.
How about you?
Bill M17 Makin' Time
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