Connie's advice is always excellent. Since there is little room for a rarely used fender board, I almost always use two extra large fenders and tie the fenders tightly together, end to end to form a very long fender. (doesn't really work for piling only docks), The fenders will hang in a V with the height and angle defined by the lines. I often used the jib sheet cleat as a tie off for the aft fender, Just unleat the jib sheet on that side and thread the fender line through the cleat. Thanks , Doug On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 9:00 AM David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Connie always has good information and perspective to offer! It looks like his post below didn't reach the list for some reason even though the address looks correct to me. I'll try forwarding it.
----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Conbert Benneck < chbenneck@gmail.com>To: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com>Sent: Friday, July 15, 2022, 08:52:28 AM PDTSubject: Fwd: Mooring a vessel / Fenders
Good morning David,
I tried sending this to the Montgomery website, but it apparently didn't get there.
Would you forward it to the Montgomery gang please.
Could you also check the mailing address I used and correct it if it has changed.
Happy sailing
Cnnie
-------- Forwarded Message -------- | Subject: | Mooring a vessel / Fenders | | Date: | Thu, 14 Jul 2022 10:50:05 -0500 | | From: | Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> | | To: | For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> |
Good morning M-sailors
May I give you a course in Mooring 101?
To moor a vessel properly you have to meet four conditions:
- The bow has to remain in a spot where you want it to be
- The stern has to do the same
- The boat has to be prevented from moving forward or backwards at the moor location.
To accomplish this you need four mooring lines:
- A bow line
- A stern line
- A forward spring line
- An aft spring line
The first line to go ashore should be the forward spring line. This line is is cleated at your anchor cleat and then is fastened to the dock. When it is cleated, it stops the boat from moving forward.
The second line will be the aft spring line. It goes from a stern cleat on our boat to a cleat on the dock at the bow or further forward - where ever...
Now your boat can't move forward or backwards.
The next line are the bow and stern lines. As their name implies, the bow line goes from the bow of your boat to a cleat on the dock. The stern line does the same.
With these four mooring lines in place, you boat can't move forward or aft; and the bow and stern of the vessel are fixed as well.
Next problem:
Prevent abrasion of your hull on concrete surfaces, or barnacle covered pilings.
This is where fenders enter the game.
If you are at a place, with no tide, and negligible waves, and you are mooring against a fairly smooth surface, one fender hung at the middle of the boat should suffice.
If, however, you are docking in an area with high speed outboard boats towing water skiers, or big stink-potters who totally disregard the "NO WAKE" rule, you need more, and better protection from their waves.
The answer to this problem is to use a "Fender Board".
A fender board can be any old piece of a 2 X 4 , say 4 feet long.
At the ends of the 2" surface drill a hole for a line. Thread a piece of 1/4" - or what have you - line through each hole and put a stopper knot on the bottom end.
Voila, you now own a fender board.
At this point you will need two fenders on the side of the hull. The fender board is hung on the outboard side of the fenders.
Now your boat can bounce in the waves, but all the rubbing against the dock is done by the fender board. Over time it can get chewed up by - in my case - barnacles and tides.
Building a new fender board, now that you know how to make one - probably takes you 15 minutes.
It is as important as fenders are on a boat.
Happy sailing
Connie
ex M15 #400 LEPPO
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