Andrei, just my 2 cents, but why not start in the center of a bunk with a counter sunk bolt(stainless)? Then slightly oblong the next holes, left and right. Bolt those holes. Then move on to the fourth (right end) and the fifth bolt (left end) again, making your drilled holes oblong. Bolting the holes one at a time, drilling and bolting, should allow the proper curve. At least that is the way I would start out. Remember to allow for a little bending in plan view also. I used composite "wood" on my little trailer. Two layers glued together then cut to fit with a little left over. No rot, no bugs but a little more flexible than real wood. I also used lots stainless screws and finish washers to hold down the carpeting, no glue. Another advantage with composite wood is that it can be gently bent with a little propane heat carefully applied. Use a piece to experiment, composite can be very unforgiving if bent too far. Do it right, Do it once. Good luck. ---LH. -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Andrei Caldararu Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:18 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: Bunks replacement Dear all, the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list: a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock. b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue? Thanks for any help, Andrei. P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Isla nds%20-%20August/index.html A. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!