You're right, for road transport both rudder and engine come off. I usually only trail from my dry slip a couple of hundred yards to the launch ramp. It was backing into the parking slip when the rudder dropped and caught on the ground, popping right off the transom (also bending the bottom gudgeon, which required lots of force to fix). Luckily, no other damage, a credit to the construction of the 17, since an S2 in a slip not far away did the same thing last summer and ripped a huge hole in the transom. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick, Good idea about the rudder cleat backup. Cam cleats trump jam cleats in my experience. That said, I usually take both the rudder and the motor off for transport, because I have too active an imagination. If the line is not squeezing between the shield and the sheave, the top of the clamp can easily turn sideways and let the lines pop out if the knob is screwed up far enough. I suppose the plastic shaft has worn enough so the knob will not stay screwed down from friction alone. Whodathunk?
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
When the clamp is tightened I don't have a problem - it's only when the
tension clamp is loosened that the line sometimes pops out. I sail mostly with the tension loose, tightening it down only occasionally, when doing something that takes me away from the helm.
BTW, I use the clam on the transom as a backup for the rudder cleat to hold the rudder up when moving on the trailer. It's come loose a couple of times, leading at best to sanding a flat spot on the back of the rudder from trailing on the asphalt, and at worst to (when backing up), popping the whole rudder off the transom with near-disastrous results.
Rick
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 7:53 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick,
Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way?
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net
wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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