Oops! I cut the track short enough to miss the endstop screws, which is what caused my problem. Good thing I had to buy six feet! Thanks for straightening me out before I really screwed things up! Is the track hard to drill? My workshop resources are pretty basic. Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, Lightly countersink the top of the hole going through the deck. Mebbe 3/32" or less depth. Just in the top of the gelcoat. Dab a bit of sealant into the c/s. This will be under the track. You should also have had to drill thru the track for the nd stops. Apply a small bead of sealant around the holes on the bottom sides. Lightly tighten the screws/nuts. Then wait till next day to finish tightening. This will compress the set sealant. Should be the St. Patricks day charm. I'm working on mine today as well.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On 3/17/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Tim, but my problem is not bedding the screwheads. i'm mounting rubber end stops for the traveler track. The stops are like boxes with one open end and no bottom, with the screws passing through the top, through the open box, and then through the deck. I haven't figured out how to seal around the screws where they go through the deck.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Saturday, March 17, 2012, Tim Diebert <tim@timtone.com> wrote:
For bedding screws that are a pan head, I use a few turns of 'wicking' ...a light cotton string...then polysulphide around the wicking...drive it...clean up. If they are flat head screws in a countersunk plate or hardware piece...bed the hardware...allow some up the screw hole...or put a dab in there with a coupla turns of wicking. Don't use 5200 for this....Sika or Boatlife mo betta.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: March 17, 2012 10:53 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you seal the screws for the Harken end stops? They stand up clear of the cockpit floor, so there's nothing to put sealer on for bedding. That can be a pretty wet area! I've drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy and was ready to finish the job when I ran into this problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Bill,
I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
So that will give you a 3:1 purchase with the return block. I am just going with 2:1, no return block. Nice that you got the 4" c/c track. Less putzing with the holes.
On 3/14/12, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm using the Low Beam track with 4" hole centers, and am planning to leave the OEM end stops in place, cutting the new track to exactly the same length as the old and using the existing holes. That seems to allow the maximum travel for the new car. I picked #12 flat head bolts as the biggest that would fit the Harken track. I'm using a Harken 073 eyestrap mounted on the cockpit side near the end of the track to dead-end the control line, and a small deck block from Duckworks also mounted on the side at the end of the track for the return of the control line from the car. The line then returns to the becket tube on the car.