John, Just wondering if the pin is bonded to the board and rotates in a sleeve, or if the pin is supposed to be immobile, and the board rotates on the pin. Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla On Feb 27, 2010, at 2:13 PM, saltm17@aol.com wrote:
I had the same problem for awhile with my M17. I would check the pin when I stopped for gas and sometimes would find the pin hanging part way out. It looked like when the boat was on the trailer the cb was being pushed up a bit into the trunk which took the weight off the pin which was then allowed to rattle loose with vibrations. The first time I saw the problem was at a gas station halfway through a long trip. For a stop-gap measure, I taped over both holes and it worked for the rest of that trip. When back home I had both sides epoxied and that seems to have stopped the problem.
John Edwards M17 # 372 Miss T
-----Original Message----- From: Doug Kelch <doug_kelch@yahoo.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sat, Feb 27, 2010 10:56 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem
Trailering my M15 up and down the East coast I became convinced that trailing
vibration is what moves the pin out.
I tried 5200 as well and did not check it after a long tow. Lost the board
entirely 15 miles offshore (1/2 way to Nantucket from Hyannis, MA. It's a good
thing that the M15 sails reasonably well without the board.
It turns out my pin was not original and was slighty longer than the one from
the factory. I ground mine down about1/8 inch and used epoxy to seal it.
I have not had a problem since.
Thanks
Doug Kelch
M15 #310 G
"Seas the Day"
________________________________
From: Jim Ellsworth <j_ellsworth@earthlink.net>
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>
Sent: Sat, February 27, 2010 7:56:26 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem
Good Advice Joe,
After spreading some 5200 over the hole and having it poke through, I put a
second coat on and only put the centerboard down sailing upwind. This seemed
to work until I noticed the pin hanging out after my trip to Havasu (6 hr.
drive + 3 days in the water).
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe
Murphy
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 6:22 AM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem
I saw something not too long ago that cautioned keel/cb owners to never,
never anchor/moor with the cb in the down position for this reason.
Joe
M17 Seafrog #651
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Ellsworth
To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem
Hi Gary!
I think in the San Juan's it was sitting in the slip/anchor/dock that
worked
it loose, but good point you bring up about the trailer to be honest I
don't
think I have inspected it prior to launching after a long drive.
At any rate I think I will probably grind out a little indentation and
fill
with some matt and glass as Sean did.
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Gary M
Hyde
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 2:12 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem
Jim:
Vince and Sharon Himsl had that pin problem on their M15 and knurled the
pin
and I think glued it in. I haven't had the problem but am wondering if one
might best lower the board down onto the trailer (and re-cleat) so that
the
board doesn't rattle around as much during the trailering. That should
reduce the motion that tends to work the pin out. I did calk over my pin
the
help assure it won't come out.
--Gary Hyde
2005 M17 #637 sailboat 'Hydeaway 2'
On Feb 24, 2010, at 9:47 PM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Ok another issue:
This started during my San Juan trip in June. When I pulled the boat out
at
the end of my 15 day trip the centerboard pin was almost all the way
out.
I
have tried putting a coat of 5200 over the holes but the pin keeps
pushing
through the 5200. I know Sean ground out around the pin area and glassed
over the holes. Has anyone else had this issue and how did you solve
it.
Thanks!
Jim Ellsworth
M-17 #603 Grace
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Ellsworth
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:29 PM
To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'
Subject: Re: M_Boats: mainsheet track
Another Option,
I want to have an adjustable traveler also but don't want to change the
track. I found something on the Schaefer web site. I think the track is
a
Schaefer 1" and on their web site I found a Spinnaker Pole Slider
Towable/lined part #17-78. This is a car that would fit on the existing
tract with a ring to connect the mainsheet and two u rings on either
side
to
put a single or double block so you can run your lines from an eye strap
then through the blocks and to a cam cleat mounted to the cockpit seat
wall.
I am not sure it is any less expensive than the Harken option but it
could
be done without drilling more holes in the cockpit floor.
Jim Ellsworth
M-17 #603 Grace
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Larry
E
Yake
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:15 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: mainsheet track
Tom,
When I relocated the mainsheet track, I put it about 18" back from the
companionway. That location has worked out real well. If you do move
your mainsheet track very far, you'll need to also move the boom bail,
but that's easy enough to do. If your worried about drilling extra holes
in your boom, just take a look at Gary O's boom. :-) I would also
recommend doing the epoxy plug thing when you put new holes in the
cockpit sole. That will keep moisture from getting into the wood core,
and also prevent the compression problem.
Larry Y
On Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:37:42 -0800 Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> writes:
Hi Randy,
Thanks for the tips and cautions. I did not know the track was
through-bolted, since I have never stuck my head up under the
cockpit. I'm surprised the glass separated from the plywood by
squeezing too tightly on the bolts; you must have cranked them down
hard enough to compress the wood.
I will have to get the boat on the water to experiment with the
track
location, but the water is still quite hard in our neck of the
woods. It would be nice to be able to sneak between the sheet and
the tiller to tack without raising the latter (I now have less than
an inch clearance), so perhaps I will get two upgrades in one.
Tom Jenkins
M17 #626
On Feb 24, 2010, at 4:09 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I can help with some information having done the same on our 1988
model. The cockpit floor is comprised of a
fiberglass-plywood-fiberglass sandwich. The top layer of
fiberglass is
as you can see in the cockpit floor with non-skid, and roughly
3/16
thick. If you were to crawl under your cockpit and look up at the
bottom of the floor you would also see fiberglass but this is mat
and
resin. Between the two is plywood. My guess is the total thickness
of
the sandwich is just less than 1".
Tightening the new track caused the top layer of non-skid
fiberglass
to separate from the plywood core on our boat (I heard of the
same
thing on one other boat). Jerry recommended a vacuum technique to
re-bond the two. Jerry made it sound easy but I concluded it was a
bit
over my head. The separated area formed a bubble in the forward
floor
of the cockpit. I drilled a small hole through the top layer and
by
tilting the boat a bit was able to manage a sufficient quantity
of
penetrating epoxy into the detached area. I then placed several
cinder
blocks on top the floor while it cured. Turned out OK! Lesson
learned
is to not over tighten the screws holding the track. They are
machine
thread and fender washer and locknut'd on the bottom side. Snub
with
some bedding compound and you are good-to-go!
Yes, the holes between the two tracks don't line up. Larry took
the
opportunity when mounting his new track to move the track forward
about 12 inches or so. This still allowed for a person to sit
forward
of the track but gave the helmsman more room to move between the
mainsheet and tiller. Because of the change in mechanical
advantage by
moving the mainsheet forward he also upgraded to a 4-to-1
purchase.
The windward sheeting setup is a nice package and has worked
great.
Randy Graves
M17 #410
On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 2:55 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net>
wrote:
I am plotting installation of a Harken windward sheeting car
setup
on my
2004 M17, in place of the factory T track and slide. Anybody
know
what the
present track is screwed into, so I will know what to expect when
I install
the 7/8" CB track? Additionally, the new track is bolted on
3-15/16"
centers (obviously 10 centimeters), but I measured my old track
at 4"
centers. Is the old track metric as well, and my measurement
faulty? (My
boat is many miles away at the moment, so I can't remeasure).
Thanks in advance for any insights and assistance.
Tom Jenkins
Scintilla
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